Sweet Meyer Lemon & Apple Sage Invigorating Shampoo Bars

I made these a few months ago, but got too busy blogging about Holiday soaps and Soap Challenges to share it.


Shampoo bars with positive and negative impression mat design

I’m trying a simpler approach to shampoo bars – just using an impression mat for the top, as the soap sets up so fast with all the castor oil in it.


The Plan:

Use a 9-bar mold with negative impression mat and a 6-bar mold with peacock positive impression mat.

Shampoo Master batch Oils #1: (Makes 90 oz/ 5.6 lbs shampoo soap)
(August 1, 2016 Blog recipe)
Oils: 62 oz/ 1758 grams
NaOH/Lye 3% SF: 8.87 oz/ 252 grams
Distilled Water (1.46 oz disc): 19 oz / 539 grams
Sodium Lactate: 18 grams (add to lye water)
DL-Panthenol: 52 grams (add to lye water)

FO’s – 5.8 oz total:
2.6 oz SM Lemon
3.2 oz Apple Sage

Description and Properties of Fragrances:

  • Sweet Meyer Lemon: Think of a lush, Caribbean garden bursting with the aroma of sweet lemons, horned melons, succulent kiwis, and ripe pineapple wedges. Sweet tropical florals complete this island wonder. Discolors tan, some acceleration.
  • Apple Sage: A refreshing blend of sweet, juicy apple and herbaceous sage. Top notes of pineapple mingle with a touch of coconut water and an rich, earthy base. This fragrance is sweet, fresh and mouthwatering. NO D/A/R.

I tested these scents in a 1:1 ratio on cotton balls and the Lemon really dominated the scent to the point where I couldn’t smell the Apple. I then tried a 2:1 Apple/ Lemon and the Apple took over, so I settled on a 3:2 ratio of Apple to Lemon. But as I was blending the scents I ended up with 3.2:2.6 blend.

Batter/Colors/(FO’s in all soap):
22.5 oz CC Lime Green Mojito Mica
22.5 oz BB Apple Green LabColor
22.5 oz BB Lemon Yellow LabColor
22.5 oz TKB True Red

I mixed my Lye-water with my oils when both were at 125 degrees. I wanted to soap a little warmer to hopefully help with the slight acceleration of the SM Lemon as well as keep the castor oil more fluid.

After all the lumpiness I got on my last batch (August 29, 2016 Blog), I wanted to make sure I stirred it more. It only took about 20 seconds of hand stirring to reach emulsification and I should have stopped there. But I was worried about the effects of the last batch and mixed it for another 20 seconds…and it really set up fast.

I dumped all my batter in the molds in a semblance of a pattern and swirled with a chopstick, but it was so uneven on the top of the 9-bar mold, I went ahead and smoothed it down with a spatula, ruining the nice swirls that would be on the bottom of the bar and creating too much unevenness:

I was able to pound down the 6-bar mold more evenly, so you can see the swirl pattern:


Bottom of 6-bar mold


The Un-molding:


9-bar mold with negative impression mat (dividers still in)

Since I poured the red last, there was not much that came through the first pour onto the impression mat.

The photos below show the 6-bar mold, with a close up on the left, where it looks like some of the mat has disintegrated. (You can see this on the far left of the first photo too.) This mat is for jewelry making, so over time it may not be able to withstand the harsh lye environment.


The Cut:


From 9-bar mold


A couple bars got a splash of red


From 6-bar mold


I’m a bit disappointed with these. The two greens are so similar, that when cured they look the same. And where is all the red and yellow? Much of the yellow has disappeared, and even though there is a lot of red, you don’t see much on the top/front of the bars. Guess it’s time to go back to the color wheel!

With such a quick set up of the batter, using only 2 colors may be a better way to go too.

I super-fatted at 3% instead of 4% and they just don’t feel as nice as they usually do. (I did this thinking with less oils, I might get more glide – but that was the wrong way to go.)

I would like to try using some silk fibers next time – I have read that it makes the hair feel smoother, creates more lather, and gives you more slip after rinsing.

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