I knew this would be a very busy and complicated soaping session, simultaneously making two different batches of soap with two different soap batters. I tried this technique once before and did okay with it (see Sept 19, 2016 Blog). I just didn’t realize how difficult it could become.
Make two soap batches, one with home made beer and one with distilled water. The reason for two batches is to have soap that is not discolored by the dark beer – to add color for design. This was done very successful before (in Sept 19, 2016 Blog).
Master batch #6 oils: 42.3 oz Oils + Plus 1.7 oz Pumpkin Seed Oil (Makes 62 oz soap)
Oils: 42.3 oz/ 1199 grams
Pumpkin Seed Oil (3.8%): 1.7 oz/ 48 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 6.23 oz / 177 grams
Chocolate Oatmeal Stout Beer (cooked & frozen, 2.52 oz disc): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate: 12 grams
Kaolin Clay: 12 grams
Master batch #6 oils: 44 oz Oils (Makes 62 oz soap)
Oils: 44 oz/ 1247 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.26 oz / 178 grams
Distilled Water: (2.52 oz disc): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate: 12 grams
Kaolin Clay: 12 grams
There will be 7 oz of beer batter left and 21 oz of white batter left for embeds & samples after using a combo of these two batches.
I added my NaOH to Frozen Beer, when everything was melted and combined, I put in my additives (Sodium Lactate & Kaolin Clay). While that was going on, I mixed up the second batch of NaOH & distilled water and put it into a ice bath.
I started with my beer batter, combining 95 degree lye & 100 degree oils. As soon as I started the stick blender it got thick. I divided out the soap and quickly soaped the other batter at 112 degree lye and 100 degree oils, blending to emulsified.
Since the beer soap quickly turned to pudding, I had to modify my plans a little (less colors), but what I really needed was an alternate plan, which I didn’t have, as I didn’t expect the beer to be so unruly. (You should always have a back-up plan!)
I did shift things around a bit – pouring the first layer of my first batch, then moving on to my second batch. (The second layer of colors for the first batch were too thin to use right away.) When that was complete, I came back to the first batch and finished it.
Milk & Honey Oatmeal Stout Beer Soap in Layers & Tiger stripe
Description of Bramble Berry Scents:
Oatmeal Stout: This fragrance smells positively edible! It’s a full bodied and smooth beer fragrance blended with Creamy Oatmeal, Orange Peel, Butterscotch, Farm-fresh Milk, Nutty Almond and Rich Vanilla. CP: A & D, 7.7% Vanilla.
Oatmeal Milk & Honey: Sweet & toasty, with warm Oatmeal flavor with creamy milk & honey. CP: A & D – greenish-brown. 2.5% Vanilla. (Did not Accelerate last time used).
Use 34 oz beer batter & 20 oz white batter
FO: 2 oz Oatmeal Stout & 1 oz OMH
54 oz Batter/Colors/FO: (34 oz beer batter & 20 oz white batter)
1st Layer: 20 oz beer batter & BB Cappuccino mica
1.2 oz Oatmeal Stout FO – mix quickly & pour
2nd Layer: 20 oz regular batter (use 15 oz/ 3 oz per color for layers & 1 oz for top)
1 oz OMH FO distributed in all but white
5 oz TD White NO FO
5 oz BB Burgundy
5 oz BB Oxide Yellow
5 oz BB Tangerine Wow Orange
3rd Layer: 14 oz beer batter & TD white
.8 oz Oatmeal Stout FO – mix quickly & pour
I originally had five colors for this batched, but quickly shortened it to four to simplify it a bit.
I mixed up the first layer with a touch of Cappuccino mica, added the FO, quickly stirred and poured into the mold. (I then went on to the second batch and came back to this one after it was completed).
When I mixed in my colors, my Oxide Yellow got very stiff and the Burgundy accelerated a bit too (this was before adding the FO). I have seen this happen before and realized that those colors had been sitting around in oils since making holiday soaps, so they were probably too old to use. (After this project I went through all my colors in oils and threw out most of them, just to be on the safe side, as several were 4-6 months old.)
Because I had two stiff colors & two at very light trace, I modified my plan for my tiger stripes. I poured the colors down the middle, but they were very uneven, so I swirled them with a chop stick in a swirl similar to a spoon swirl (only in the middle layer.)
I gave up on the plan to use some of these colors for the top and lightened my 14 oz of beer batter with TD for a “foamy” kind of look.
I mixed up this batter – added a little extra olive oil to thin it out a touch, put in the FO, gave it a quick stir and ladled it on the top.
I put this in fridge to prevent overheating.
The top of the soap started out very light, and has done some interesting things as it’s been curing: darkening, lightening back up, then darkening again – but not the light, “foamy” look that it originally was when poured (due to both the beer and the FO discolor).
You can see how the top layer has some lighter & darker spots, which adds interest and texture:
The leftovers were enough to fill one Eye of Horus mold:
Cedar wood & Spiced Amber Ale Beer Soap in Wood Grain
Description of Bramble Berry & Bulk Apothecary FO/EO’s:
BB Spiced Amber Ale FO: Starts with a fresh citrus top note and has a warm, exotic finish. The base is a wonderful synergy of pine, clove, honey and vanilla. This beer fragrance is not meant to smell like beer on its own, but does compliment beer-type recipes. CP: no discolor or acceleration.
BA Cedarwood (Texas) EO: This essential oil has the wonderfully sweet, earthy aroma, with a balsamic wood scent. It’s said to have benefits in aromatherapy applications involving inflammatory conditions of the respiratory tract and scalp conditions. It’s also suggested that it is helpful for those with oily, acne-prone skin. No info on behavior in CP. (S/b water white).
5 lb mold lined with freezer paper and wood-grain textured mat- for a single layer of soap. (See Oct 13 Blog, Soap Challenge: Wood Grain Technique for more details). Clyde-Slide swirl (fax funnel pour into bucket and then mold – back & forth over mold).
Use 21 oz beer batter, 21 oz white batter.
FO/EO Blend: 1.2 oz Amber Ale and.8 oz Cedarwood Texas.
42 oz Batter/Colors/2 oz FO – divided into all batters: (21 oz beer batter, 21 oz white batter)
7 oz BB Cappuccino mica (beer batter)
7 oz BB TKB #40 True Red (beer batter) with TD
7 oz BB Sienna mica (beer batter) with TD
7 oz BB dark Plum (regular batter)
7 oz BB Yellow Oxide (regular batter)
7 oz BB Nuclear Orange (regular batter)
With such an extremely thick beer batter, the Clyde slide swirl was not a possibility, so I just poured & plopped lines of batter as quickly as possible. The regular batter was very thin and the beer batter was very thick, so this was a difficult process, but I needed to work as quickly as possible.
I had not planned on using Plum in this batch, but ended up just grabbing what I had on hand (I had mixed up the plum for embeds).
This was very dissatisfying and did not go well – and seemed to take forever!
A full half of this soap has brown in it (with cappuccino brown, red, and sienna added to brown beer batter) – so where did it all go? I think when using this soap, it will reveal itself.
The “dark Plum” color is more of a bright bubble-gum pink/purple…far from what I was going for. I would call this batch a definite “fail.”
When I finished both batches, I started on my embeds. By this time the leftover regular soap was not as thin as I would have wanted, but it seemed to work okay for the embeds. (I had hoped to make gun embeds, but that would have involved two colors and the batter wasn’t thin enough to get the fine details on the guns.)
I then made a few test samples and went back to my leftover beer batter and made some soaps for my Sweetie Pie.
Leftovers, Embeds and Test soaps:
3 Leftovers: Cedarwood & Spiced Amber in Oval, Round, and rectangular guest
1 Anise & 2nd Distill Peppermint Confetti soap 4:2.5 in Victorian Heart (pale blue & pink)
1 Deadly weapon with Cedarwood Texas, Confetti soap 2:2 in Victorian Heart (dark Purple)
1 Fruity Fusion in Flur-de-Lis (dark plum)
25 Raspberry Embeds
25 Blackberry Embeds
20 Blueberry Embeds
This was a complicated soaping session if everything went well; with the beer soap accelerating to thick trace, it made it a very difficult and unhappy soaping experience. I worked as quickly as I could, but it seemed to take forever to complete these two batches. (And in reality, it was a very long soaping session and took quite a while to make each soap).
It was frustrating and exhausting, constantly dealing with the very thick beer batter. I did add some olive oil and even distilled water, which helped thin it out a tiny bit, but there wasn’t much else to do, other than give up and dump it all into one mold with one scent. Which is what I maybe should have done – but that would have felt like giving up without even trying, so I persevered. (I was aware that adding more oil would increase my Super Fat and adding water could slow the cure time).
It would have been so much better to make smaller batches of beer and regular soap and only make one beer soap with the two batches. Alternatively, I should have first prepared the regular soap – separated out the batter and colored it, then made the beer soap by hand mixing (without stick blending).