I wanted to experiment with blending some scents to boost a base fragrance, and combine a variety of techniques: layers, confetti, embeds, in-the-pot swirl and drop swirl.
I didn’t have a complete plan in mind, but several random ideas. Usually I wait until something coalesces, but that didn’t seem to happen with this soap. I had hoped it would come together while working on it, as I’m not good without a plan. So this time I just “winged it,” and fortunately it worked out.
Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Exotic Fruit Smoothie: This tropical fragrance smells of melons, pineapple, acai berry, ripe nectarine, dripping guava, baobab fruit, pomegranates with herbs, grapefruit, cassis and tropical water top notes. It’s a mix of of all the best fruits of the tropics without any of the calories. Deliciously tart, sweet and fruity all at the same time. Behavior in CP: Rices badly, oils separate out, accelerates; light scent; discolors yellow.
This is a very bad behaving scent! When I used it several years ago, it was horrible – my soap was apple sauce. When I finished the bottle, I swore I would never buy it again, but then last year I remembered how I loved the fragrance so much and didn’t have anything that compared, so I tried it again and discovered that it was workable and not so bad soaping at lower temperatures. (I did mess up the last batch by overheating while gelling – click here for May 30, 2016 Blog.)
I have since discovered two new fragrances I like even better, so it’s time to use this up and move on to the next best thing! I wanted to add some other FO’s because of the light fragrance, but also to make it more “fruity & berry.” So I added BB Sun Ripened Raspberry, Blueberry, Blackberry Cybilla, and Southern Peach.
Make 62 oz soap; 47 for 3 lb mold; (pouring off 15 oz for samples & embeds.)
3 lb Mold: 52 oz soap, less embeds of 5 oz = 47 oz soap base.
Since the base scent accelerates and rices, do three separate layers (with confetti and/or ITP swirl). Use colors similar to berry top embeds.
Master batch oils: 44 oz Oils (Makes 62 oz soap)
Oils: 44 oz/ 1247 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.27 oz / 178 grams
Distilled Water: (2.52 oz disc; 17.35% disc): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate: 12 grams
Kaolin Clay: 12 grams
Extract (1%): 12 grams (6 grams Chamomile & 6 grams Evening of Primrose)
FO Blend and Properties: 3.5 oz total:
2.5 oz Exotic Fruit Smoothie (R, A, Yellow)
.25 Sun Ripened Raspberry (A fast, R)
.25 Southern Peach (A, Separates, Yellow)
.25 Blueberry (discolors light Tan)
.25 Blackberry Cybilla (discolors Green)
20 oz: 16 oz Purple (BB Ultramarine Violet with a hint of Activated Charcoal Black) & 4 oz Blue (BB Ultraviolet blue). Plus white & purple confetti. Base of purple, add FO & mix in confetti, then ITP blue; scallop top.
1.8 oz FO blend
14 oz: 11 oz Red (TKB #30 True Red) & 3 oz Purple (BB Ultramarine Violet). Base of red, add FO, ITP swirl with purple; scallop top.
1 oz FO blend
11 oz: 8 oz Dark Pink (TKB #27 Red & TKB Cosmic Carolyn) & 3 oz TD white color. Base of pink, add FO; ITP & drop swirl white; mound top.
.7 oz FO blend
Top: 5 oz embed berries & iridescent glitter.
I mixed up my scent blend and measured it out for each layer.
I soaped with the lye at 106 degrees and the oils at 112, stick blended to emulsification, then divided up all the batter and added colors. (This was another complicated one, with not only the 5 colors in the main batch, but also 5 additional colors for making embeds for future projects.)
The first layer went as planned. Surprisingly, I didn’t get any ricing and the acceleration was slow and seemed to move in phases (acceleration, then a pause, then more acceleration). I colored the batter purple and had to add more after the FO, as it discolored the purple to more of a grey-sh purple. I had so much batter for this layer after adding the confetti, that I didn’t use any of the blue or do an ITP swirl. It took a bit of time before the top was firm enough to scallop.
I had planned to do two layers with confetti, but after using some in the first layer, I realized I didn’t have enough confetti with complimentary colors for more layers. So with the second layer, I did an ITP swirl with red & purple, and ITP & drop swirl with pink & white for the last layer.
(While waiting for each layer to firm up, I worked on making embeds with the extra batter that was poured off at the beginning.)
Top of Loaf Mold:
Leftover Berry Smoothie batter was put in a leaf mold.
For not having a clear plan, I am pleasantly surprised at how well this soap worked out – I love how the colors in each layer compliment each other, as well as the embeds on top. And the scent blend smells lovely.
I think soaping at lower temperatures really helped these fragrances (when I first worked with this years ago, I soaped at 130 degrees.)