Shampoo Master Batching Oils – #2

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My first Shampoo Master Batch Oils lasted almost a year (see Shampoo MB Oils #1 here).

I had modified the recipe a bit when making a special order and liked the results. (See POG & POGY Shampoo bar blog here).

By increasing the Caster & Coconut oils to 25%, the lather was incredible. I decided to go all in and make a full batch of this. (The downside is loosing some of the merits of other oils that are no longer included).

 

Information on Oils used:

  • Apricot Kernel Oil: High linoleic & oleic acids; readily absorbed into the skin; conditioning; good for sensitive, dry & mature skin; helps relieve eczema itch.
  • Castor Oil: A humectant – draws moisture to skin/hair; creates lots of lather; (accelerates trace when over 5%).
  • Cocoa Butter: Contains natural antioxidants; retains & restores moisture; rich in Vitamin E; helps to soothe, hydrate, & balance skin; provides collagen, which assists with wrinkles & other signs of aging.
  • Coconut Oil: Moisturizing & easily absorbed in the skin; has high cleansing power; contains a lot of medium chain triglycerides; almost 50% of the fatty acids in coconut oil is the 12-carbon Lauric Acid. (The lauric acid can kill harmful pathogens like bacteria, viruses and fungi.)
  • Olive Oil: High levels of Oleic acid; mild, creamy lather with rich feel. Prevents the loss of skin’s natural moisture; helps keep skin soft, supple, and younger looking. Good for sensitive skin.
  • Palm Kernel Flakes: Makes for an exceptionally hard bar; adds sheen to soap; (I found it accelerates trace at higher percentages and only use up to 8%.)
  • Palm Oil: Makes a hard bar of soap that produces a rich, creamy lather. As a natural skin care product, tocotrienols (vitamin E found in palm oil) help neutralize free radicals in the skin generated by ultraviolet rays, thus protect against UV related damage and skin aging. Vitamin E is an antioxidant that will prevent collagen damage, fine lines and wrinkles, and cellular damage.
  • Sunflower Seed Oil: High in Linoleic & Oleic essential fatty acids; high Vitamin E; high unsaturated fatty acids – leaves oily feel on skin; good alternative to Olive Oil; conditioning lather. (Linoleic acid helps repair skin’s barrier mechanisms and helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).  Oleic acid softens & moisturizes skin; and phytosterols reduce inflammation and itching as well as TEWL. All of this immproves skin health.)

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Some of the must haves in shampoo bars:

  • Caster oil creates great lather. It is a humectant, which draws moisture to skin/hair.
  • Coconut oil and Palm oil provide cleansing and a fluffy lather, plus adds to the hardness of the bar.
  • Nettle Extract improves the appearance of hair; is said to help prevent oily hair & dandruff, and helps prevent frizziness; leaving hair feeling nice & refreshed.
  • DL Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) is super moisturizing to hair; creates extra sheen and shine, and is also known to help improve hair structure. It builds a thin moisture film on the surface of the hair (film former) and makes it shine without oil or greasiness. In addition, it can penetrate the cuticle and bring moisture to the cortex. This improves the manageability and pliability of hair, and it is better able to cope with brushing, wind, and other non-hair friendly things. Finally, it can give hair more body.
  • Sodium Lactate: Makes a harder, longer lasting bar. It is derived from the natural fermentation of sugars found in corn and beets, and is the sodium salt of lactic acid. It is found in our skin’s natural moisturizing factor, and it’s a very effective humectant. It has been found to improve the barrier properties of skin (in studies, there is a decrease in the trans epidermal water loss, which is a good thing). It is believed to stimulate ceramide synthesis in the skin, and it increases the plasticity of skin. It also acts as a mild AHA, which can help reduce “the look of fine lines and wrinkles” – 1.5 times more effective than glycerin.

 

Shampoo Master Batching:

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My brain thinks in ounces, but I measure in grams for more precise calculations. I always have percentages, for customizing the recipe to any size.

Recipe: 400 oz oils; 25 lbs. Makes 588 oz soap/ 36.75 lbs
5%        Apricot Kernel Oil   20 oz      567 grams
25%      Castor Oil                100 oz   2835 grams
5%        Cocoa Butter             20 oz      567 grams
25%      Coconut Oil             100 oz    2835 grams
5%        Olive Oil                     20 oz      567 grams
5%        Palm Kernel Flakes  20 oz      567 grams
20%      Palm Oil                      80 oz    2268 grams
10%      Sunflower Seed Oil   40 oz    1134 grams    Total Oils: 11,340 gram

Put in 4 – 1 gallon jugs & freeze until needed.

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400 oz of oils in 1-gallon jugs

 

Broken down into a smaller batch, looks like this:

Recipe: 100 oz oils; makes 144 soap/ 9 lbs
5%        Apricot Kernel Oil     5 oz          142 grams
25%      Castor Oil                  25 oz          709 grams
5%        Cocoa Butter               5 oz          142 grams
25%      Coconut Oil               25 oz          709 grams
5%        Olive Oil                       5 oz          142 grams
5%        Palm Kernel Flakes    5 oz          142 grams
20%      Palm Oil                     20 oz          567 grams
10%      Sunflower Seed Oil  10 oz          283 grams    Total Oils: 2836 grams
Add at time of soaping:
6%SF    NaOH/Lye             14.07 oz          399 grams
0 disc   Distilled Water          33 oz          935 grams
Additives (At time of soaping):
Nettle Extract (3%)                  3 oz            85 grams (add to Oils or at trace)
DL-Panthenol (3%)                  3 oz            85 grams (add to Lye water)
Sodium Lactate (1%)               1 oz            28 grams (into Lye water at <130 degrees)

 

I then put my recipe in a Lye/soap calculator (I use Bramble Berry’s here) and I hit the Resize Batch button to adjust the oil weight, creating a variety of different sized recipes for future batches:

 

Recipe: 65 oz MB oils, 95 oz soap/ 5.9 lbs:
MB Oils: 65 oz/ 1843 grams
NaOH Lye 6% SF: 9.14 oz/ 259 grams
Distilled Water: 21.45 oz/ 608 grams
Nettle Extract (3%): 55 grams (add to oils or at trace)
DL-Panthenol (3%): 55 grams (add to lye water)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 18 grams (add to lye water at <130 degrees)

 

Recipe: 50 oz MB oils, 73 oz soap/4.5 lbs
MB Oils: 50 oz/ 1417 grams
NaOH/Lye 6% SF: 7.03 oz/ 199 grams
Distilled Water: 16 oz / 554 grams
Nettle Extract (3%): 42 grams (add to oils or at trace)
DL-Panthenol (3%): 42 grams (add to lye water)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 14 grams (add to lye water at <130 degrees)

 

Recipe: 30 oz MB oils, 44 oz soap/2.75 lbs
MB Oils: 30 oz/ 851 grams
NaOH/Lye 6% SF: 4.22 oz/ 120 grams
Distilled Water: 9.9 oz / 281 grams
Nettle Extract (3%): 25 grams (add to oils or at trace)
DL-Panthenol (3%): 25 grams (add to lye water)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 8 grams (add to lye water at <130 degrees)

 

Conclusions:
I’ve already made a batch shampoo bars and find the lather incredible (especially having hard water, which discourages the creation of any suds.)

See the next blog for a new shampoo bar – the best ones I’ve ever made!

 

 

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