Oatmeal Milk & Honey with Layers, Hanger Swirl, Honeycomb Top and Heart Embed, plus Colloidal Oatmeal, Goat’s Milk & Colorado Honey

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Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Oatmeal Milk & Honey Cybilla FO:
Warm oatmeal, creamy milk & honey. CP: discolors to creamy beige; 1% Vanilla.
Oatmeal Milk & Honey FO:
Sweet & toasty. CP: Accelerates & discolors greenish-brown. (I did not get any acceleration in the past.) Reviews: smells like butter cream, cookie dough, & almond; milky oatmeal with hints of almond & honey.

Honey in cold process soap gives additional humectant properties and helps create bubbles. (A humectant is an ingredient that absorbs moisture from the air.) Humectants are great for the skin, as they can help the skin retain moisture. Honey also contains antioxidants and natural sugars which can increase the lather of cold process soap.

Honey can be added to the soap at trace, or to the soaping oils prior to adding lye. (Or you can dilute it in a portion of the water in the recipe, and add this mixture at trace.) Adding honey is adding sugar, which will increase the temperature and can cause acceleration. Recommended use is 1 teaspoon per pound of soap (or about 1% of the oils).

Colloidal Oatmeal is a micro-fine, ground oatmeal that is not rough or abrasive. A great additive for those with extra dry skin and is used to alleviate itchiness. Colloidal Oatmeal has all the benefits of oatmeal without the scratchiness. It makes skin feel smooth & refreshing.

Goat milk is particularly moisturizing and nourishing to the skin because of capric-caprylic triglyceride. Capric-caprylic triglyceride is an effective skin moisturizer that helps to contribute to skin softness by forming a barrier on the skin to help inhibit the loss of moisture. It is the only milk that contains naturally occurring capric-caprylic triglycerides.

The protein strands of goat milk are shorter than other types of milk and are more readily absorbed by skin. Goat milk is also fantastic in soap because it has a lower pH (between 4.0 and 6.4), thus reducing the overall pH of the final bar of soap (this may aid in protecting skin from unwanted bacteria).

Goat milk also has naturally occurring lactic acid that helps keep skin smooth by encouraging skin turnover (allowing the skin to naturally rejuvenate, similar to a gentle peel). It also contains many vitamins, specifically A (known for it’s ability to repair damaged tissue and reduce wrinkles), D and B6, as well as the anti-oxidant Selenium.

 

The Plan:
3 lb mold; 48 oz of soap + 3.5 oz small, beige heart tube embed.
1.5 oz of each OMH Cybilla FO and OMH FO.
A layer of bubble wrap on the bottom of mold (which will become the honeycomb top).
1st & 3rd layer: 1.5 oz OMH Cybillia FO, natural/orange with .75 oz Vanilla Stabilizer.
2nd & 4th layer: 1.5 oz OMH FO, cappuccino brown.
Circular Hanger swirl, starting in the middle and working outward.
Add upside-down beige heart dusted with gold in 4th layer (will be right side up when flipped over).

Master batch Oils #7: 34 oz Oils (Makes 48 oz soap)
MB Oils: 34 oz/ 964 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 4.85 oz / 137 grams
Frozen Goat’s Milk: (2.22 oz disc; 20% disc): 9 oz / 255 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 10 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 10 grams (in oils)
Colloidal Oatmeal (1%): 10 grams (in oils)
Honey (1%): 10 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Oat Extract (1%): 10 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Color/FO (3 oz):
Each Layer:
12 oz Natural; .75 oz OMH Cybilla with .37 oz NG Vanilla Stabilizer (1st layer)
12 oz BB Cappuccino Brown (light); .75 oz OMH (2nd layer)
12 oz BB Nuclear Orange & CC Yellow Mica; .75 oz OMH Cybilla with .37 oz NG VS (3rd layer)
12 oz BB Cappuccino Brown (darker); .75 oz OMH (4th layer)
Small heart tube dusted with BB Gold Sparkle mica.

 

The Reality:
I put all my additives in the oils and stick blended, adding the sodium lactate in the lye milk. The lye mixture reached 97F degrees. I combined the lye liquid and oils at 96F and 107F and stick blended to light trace.

I had forgotten that the honey accelerates trace, but to make layers I needed the soap thicker anyway. I mixed up my first layer and needed to stick blend a little more before pouring on top of the bubble wrap on the bottom of the mold.

When mixing up the second layer, I got some slight acceleration from the FO, but it was just the right thickness to add to the top of the first layer. I then mixed up and added the third & fourth layers.

I then put my hanger halfway into the middle of the mold and attempted to make circles, getting bigger at each pass. But doing this blindly, it was difficult to imagine if I was making concentric circles. I then added the upside down beige heart dusted with gold mica. (I first tried dusting the mica by hand, which didn’t work. I then used a powder spray bottle (purchased at Qosmedix here), but that only gave a very, very fine coating. I should have switched to a tea strainer to try to get a thicker coating.)

In hind sight, I wish I would have saved a bit of soap from each layer to decorate the top (which will become the bottom) for two reasons: 1) By the time I got to my fourth layer, I only had enough room for about 3/4 of the batter. 2) It’s always good to have a nice swirl in case the bottom bubble wrap (which will be the top) doesn’t come out as wanted.

 

The Cut:

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Conclusions:
The gold mica on the heart embed did not make a showing – I needed a much thicker coating. I had spritzed the heart with alcohol, which helped the mica stick, but dusting with a tea strainer would have given a thicker coating, which may have come through in the cut.

The OMH Cybillia FO isn’t coming through as strongly as I had hoped, so there is more of a cookie dough/almond scent than I wanted. I also miss the hit of Caramel, which I added to my previous batch (See blog here).

I’m surprised that the yellow-orange isn’t more orange, but I think it still adds a nice contrast. I do like that so far it hasn’t discolored as much as before, (I’m sure the Vanilla Stabilizer helps.)

I am very pleased that the heart embed matches the natural color so well. (I used BB Gold Sparkle Mica to color it, after being advised that it really would turn gold. It didn’t, but maybe I need to use a lot more mica next time – however, the fail worked perfectly for this soap.)

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