I’ve had a lot of interest in the previous two batches of shampoo bars formulated to help promote hair growth and decrease hair loss. I already use Coconut & Olive oils and I wanted incorporate more oils that encourage this – specifically, Argan, Avocado, Jojoba, Moringa, Neem oils.
The original plan was to replace the Apricot oil with Avocado oil and add 1-2 % of each the other oils. These are very expensive oils: Neem is the cheapest, at $10-15 a pound, while Argan & Jojoba oils come in at $20/lb, and Moringa Seed oil is up to $50 a pound.
I also bumped up the Avocado & Olive oils 1% and decreased the Palm Oil from 20% to 16%, assuming that the bars will still be very hard, as I’m using 92F degree Coconut Oil instead of the 76F degree in the past.
Here’s the recipe I came up with:
Recipe: 400 oz oils; 25 lbs; 588 oz soap/ 36.75 lbs:
2% Argan Oil 8 oz 227 grams
6% Avocado Oil 24 oz 680 grams
25% Castor Oil 100 oz 2835 grams
5% Cocoa Butter 20 oz 567 grams
25% Coconut Oil (92 degree) 100 oz 2835 grams
2% Jojoba Oil 8 oz 227 grams
1% Moringa Oil 4 oz 114 grams
1% Neem Oil 4 oz 114 grams
6% Olive Oil 24 oz 680 grams
5% Palm Kernel Flakes 20 oz 567 grams
16% Palm Oil 64 oz 1814 grams
6% Sunflower Seed Oil 24 oz 680 grams Total Oils: 11,340 grams
Additives (at time of soaping) to promote hair growth and prevent hair loss:
Ginseng Extract (1%): (add to oils)
Green Tea Extract (1%):(add to oils)
Nettle Extract (1%): (add to oils)
Sodium Lactate (1%): (add to oils or lye water)
Silk Amino Acids (1%): (in lye water)
DL-Panthenol (1%): (in lye water)
OR can use the usual additives (at time of soaping):
Nettle Extract (3%) (add to Oils)
DL-Panthenol (3%) (add to water)
Sodium Lactate (1%) (into Lye water at <130 degrees)
Properties of oils in relation to hair:
Argan oil: Contains lots of vitamin E, omega 3 and 9 fatty acids, and antioxidants, all of which do amazing things for damaged, dry, coarse or otherwise unmanageable hair.
Avocado Oil: The proteins will help fill in injured areas in the hair’s cuticles, repairing damage that’s already been done and preventing future breakage and frizz.
Coconut Oil: High in vitamin E and other nutrients, and your hair can absorb them all. The result will be hair that is thicker, shiner, healthier and has stronger roots. It also contains lauric and capric acid, which have amazing antimicrobial powers – meaning it will make your hair and scalp healthier and prevent dandruff, itchy scalp and infections.
Jojoba oil: High in vitamins A, E and D and is great for all hair types. Jojoba oil helps repair damage to your hair and promotes new, healthy hair growth.
Moringa Oil: contains thiocyanate which strengthens the hair follicles and prevents hair fall. It is used as a natural conditioner and promotes new hair growth.
Neem Oil: has high anti-bacterial properties and improves blood circulation to the scalp, which is helpful in tackling thinning hair and premature graying. It also helps to boost hair growth.
Olive Oil: Promotes hair growth.
After melting all the oils and putting them in a bucket, I stirred it up and poured into four -1 gallon jugs, let cool, then refrigerated and froze them to stop the aging of the oils.
I then put my recipe in a Lye/soap calculator (I use Bramble Berry’s here) and I hit the Resize Batch button to adjust the oil weight, creating a variety of different sized recipes for future batches:
Broken down into a smaller batch, looks like this:
Shampoo Master Batch Oils #3: 80 oz oils, 118 oz soap/ 7.35 lbs:
(for 18 bar mold, plus samples)
SMB Oils: 80 oz/ 2268 grams
NaOH Lye 6% SF: 11.13 oz/ 315 grams
Distilled Water: 26.4 oz/ 748 grams
Plus 1 – 3% extracts: (23-68 grams)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 23 grams (add to lye water)
Shampoo Master Batch Oils #3: 62 oz oils, 90 oz soap/ 5.6 lbs:
(for 9 bar & 6 bar mold, plus samples)
SMB Oils: 62 oz/ 1758 grams
NaOH/Lye 6% SF: 8.62 oz/ 244 grams
Distilled Water: 20 oz / 567 grams
Plus 1 – 3% extracts: (18-52 grams)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 18 grams (add to lye water)
Shampoo Master Batch Oils #3: 40 oz oils, 58 oz soap/3.62 lbs
(for 9 bar mold, plus samples)
SMB Oils: 40 oz/ 1134 grams
NaOH/Lye 6% SF: 5.56 oz/ 158 grams
Distilled Water: 13 oz / 368 grams
Plus 1 – 3% extracts: (11-34 grams)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (add to lye water)
Shampoo Master Batch Oils #3: 30 oz oils, 44 oz soap/2.75 lbs
SMB Oils: 30 oz/ 851 grams
NaOH/Lye 6% SF: 4.17 oz/ 118 grams
Distilled Water: 9.9 oz / 281 grams
Plus 1 – 3% extracts: (8-25 grams)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 8 grams (add to lye water)
One might think that the small 1-2% of oils and additives are such meager amounts as to not have any effect. However I know from experience that 1-2% can effect big changes. For example: using 1% of Sodium Lactate really does make a soap bar harder (and using more than that can make it brittle.)
New shampoo bars coming soon!
For Additional Resources – click on the links below:
Soaping Oils Recipes:
Master Batch #13
Master Batch #12
Master Batch #10 & #11 oils – plus additional information on oils & butters
Master Batch #8 & #9 oils
Master Batch #7 oils
Master Batch #6 oils
Master Batch #5 oils
Master Batch #4 oils
Master Batch #3 oils