Description of Bramble Berry Fragrance oils:
Red Apple (RA): This scent is actually a blend of a few varieties of Red Apple scents, along with some notes of Green Apple to temper the sweetness. The Green Apple notes add some wonderful depth and tartness to the scent. CP: Accelerates and discolors very yellow. Very Light Scent. NO A.
Tart Green Apple (TA): Invigorating & fresh – it smells like you just cut into a crisp and juicy granny smith apple. CP: No A & D.
Cinnamon Sugar (CS): More of a cinnamon sticky bun sweet than spicy cinnamon. The warm ginger, cinnamon and cardamom notes provide a wonderful base for many fragrances making this an easy blending fragrance. CP: Discolors Dark Brown, 14% Vanilla; behaves well.
3 lb mold with 52 oz soap
3.5 oz Red Apple FO (very light scent), 0.5 oz Tart Green Apple, & 0.6 oz Cinnamon Sugar.
Pour off 25 oz for samples & holiday embeds.
Master batch Oils #19: 55 oz Oils (Makes 77 oz /4.8 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.76 oz / 220 grams
Distilled Water: (2.35 oz disc/ 13.5 % disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 16 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Carrot Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Cucumber Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
52 Batter/Color/FO (3.5 oz RA, 0.5 oz TA, & 0.6 oz CS FO, 0.5 VS):
1st Layer: with 0.6 oz CS fo (bottom layer)
8 oz Natural (Discolors Dark Brown)
2nd Layer: with 0.5 oz RA fo & .5 oz VS (to prevent bleeding from brown)
5 oz TKB Red
3rd Layer: with 3 oz RA + 0.5 oz TA fo
30 oz TD White
4.5 oz CC Granny Smith Apple Green
4.5 oz TKB Red
First Layer of Natural (will turn dark brow).
Second Layer of Red (with VS to prevent bleed from brown).
Then pour all of white into mold and drop swirl green & red, then horizontal & vertical hanger swirl.
(CC = Crafters Choice WSP; TD = Titanium Dioxide; TKB = TKB Trading; VS = NG Vanilla Stabilizer)
I soaped the lye liquid and oils at 86F & 92F, stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender), then divided up the batter.
I mixed up the first layer with Cinnamon Sugar FO, then stick blended it and poured into the mold – putting it into the refrigerator to help it set quicker (while I worked on Holiday embeds).
When the first layer was set, I mixed up the red with a little Red Apple and Tart Apple FO, then poured into the mold over a spatula, to prevent breakthrough, and put back into the refrigerator to set up. I measured the distance between the top of the red layer to the top of the mold and marked that on my hanger swirl (gear tie). It was between 1.5 & 1.75 inches.
When the second layer was set, I added the fragrance oil and colors to the rest of the containers, hand mixed, and poured the white over a spatula into the mold, again to prevent breakthrough. I then poured the green & red soap into the white from different heights, making 3 passes and two pours each to create a drop swirl.
I took a hanger (gear tie) and used it to swirl the colors just poured, moving it through the white both horizontally and then vertically, being careful not to put it in the mold below the markings.
I added some lines of red & green colored batter on top and swirled with a thin chopstick. I spritzed the top several times with Isopropyl Alcohol, and let it set a bit, then covered with plastic wrap and put in the curing room for two days before un-molding. I waited another 2 days before cutting.
I was worried about pouring the batter too deep into the white soap and touching the red layer, so I didn’t pour the drop swirl too far down. I also had that same concern when swirling with the hanger. The end result is that the swirls are concentrated on the top third of the bar, but I think that turned into a really nice look.
The brown layer has faded quite a bit and the contrast between the red & brown is not as distinct as right after the cut. It looks like the vanilla stabilizer in the red has migrated into the bottom layer, reversing the brown discoloration. In hindsight, I should have colored this layer brown – although in a few months it may darken again.
The soap behaved nicely and everything worked out well. I was a bit heavy-handed with the Red Apple fragrance oil, as it was a couple years old and had faded quite a bit, but that made the end scent quite lovely.