POGY – Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu Shampoo bars

Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Pineapple Cilantro: A ripe, realistic pineapple scent, with hints of coconut, orange, cilantro, vanilla, musk. CP: Slight peach color.
Orange Essential Oil: The scent of Sweet Orange is warming, comforting and “fodder for the heart”. It encourages you take things in good humor and absolves emotional confusion. It is stimulating & uplifting and good for colds & other ailments. CP: Discolors orange (after curing turns beige).
Pink Grapefruit: This is an exhilarating, wake-me-up citrus, with a juicy grapefruit aroma. Grapefruit is believed by aromatherapists to be a spiritual up-lifter, and to ease muscle fatigue and stiffness. It is also said to be a purifier of congested, oily and acne prone skin. Grapefruit is reputed to ease nervous exhaustion and relieve depression. CP: Water white.
Yuzu: A fresh and sparkling light Japanese citrus. It is also referred to as Japanese Grapefruit; with top notes of mandarin, tangerine, lemon satsuma, and ruby red grapefruit. A very subtle fragrance. CP: No A, R, D Very light. Water white.

Additives that Helps Promotes hair growth and decrease hair loss:
Aloe Vera liquid: Restores scalp health by conditioning it while balancing sebum production and pH levels. This, not only curbs hair loss, but it also promotes hair regrowth.
Argan oil: Contains lots of vitamin E, omega 3 and 9 fatty acids, and antioxidants, all of which do amazing things for damaged, dry, coarse or otherwise unmanageable hair.
Avocado oil: The proteins will help fill in damaged areas in your hair’s cuticles, repairing damage that’s already been done and preventing future breakage and frizz
Coconut oil: High in vitamin E and other nutrients, and your hair can absorb them all. The result will be hair that is thicker, shiner, healthier and has stronger roots. It also contains lauric and capric acid, which have amazing antimicrobial powers – meaning it will make your hair and scalp healthier and prevent dandruff, itchy scalp and infections.
DL-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5): Improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces redness and inflammation, increases wound healing by stimulating skin epithelialization, improves skin barrier mechanism repair, mitigates itching and soothes irritation, and behaves as a humectant.
Jojoba oil: High in vitamins A, E and D and is great for all hair types. It helps repair damage to your hair and promotes new, healthy hair growth.
Moringa oil and powder: Contains thiocyanate which strengthens the hair follicles and prevents hair fall. It is used as a natural conditioner and promotes new hair growth.
Neem oil & powder: Has high anti-bacterial properties and improves blood circulation to the scalp, which is helpful in tackling thinning hair and premature graying. It also helps to boost hair growth.
Nettle extract: Stimulates the scalp, improves blood circulation and protects against further damage and breakage.
Olive Oil: Promotes hair growth.
Silk Amino Acids: Can penetrate very deeply into the hair cortex to strengthen and repair hair. It protects hair from moisture loss and conditions it to provide a silky smoothness.

The Plan:

6 Chrysanthemum & 6 Sunflower molds – with clyde slide swirl or layering.

Shampoo Master Batch Oils #3: 34 oz oils, 50 oz soap/3 lbs
SMB Oils: 34 oz/ 964 grams
NaOH/Lye 3% SF: 4.86 oz/ 138 grams
1:1 Cold Aloe Juice & Cold Distilled Water: (1.88 disc): 10 oz/283 grams
Nettle Extract (3%): 28 grams (add to oils)
Sodium Lactate: 10 grams (add to oils)
Silk Amino Acids: 10 grams (add to lye water when hot)
DL-Panthenol (3%): 28 grams (add to lye water 130F)

Note: Add NaOH to 5 oz cold water, then added silk hot and panthenol at 130F.
When dissolved, slowly added 5 oz cold Aloe to side of container.
Combine Oils & Lye: Stick blend for 2 seconds, add EO blend, then mix by hand.

Scent Blend 3 oz Total:
Mix together:
1 oz Pink Grapefruit (water white)
1 oz Yuzu (water white) (if not enough, use more grapefruit)
Mix together:
0.5 oz Pineapple (slight peach discolor)
0.5 oz 10x Orange (discolor orange

50 oz Batter/Colors/ 2.4 oz EO/FO blend:
26 oz TD white, 1.5 oz Yuzu & Grapefruit
8 oz BB Fired Up Fuchsia Pink, 0.5 oz mix Yuzu & Grapefruit
8 oz TKB #10 Yellow, 0.5 oz mix pineapple & orange
8 oz BB Chrome Green Oxide, with 0.25 tsp Moringa powder & 0.15 tsp Neem powder in oil, 0.5 oz mix pineapple & orange
Clyde Slide swirl and/or layers.

The Reality:

After mixing the lye in 5 oz of water thoroughly, I added the silk amino acids and had to mix the fine powder in methodically to get it all combined. At 130F, I added the DL-Panthenol, which clumped up quite a bit and was difficult to get combined. Then I added the cold Aloe liquid, which raised up the temperature 20F degrees.

I soaped the lye liquid and oils at 90F degrees, stick blending (using an immersion blender). Problems started immediately, as I forgot to start counting the seconds of blending. I stopped, assessed and stick blended for 2 more seconds – which was way too much! The first blending was probably more than I needed (I was wanting only 4 seconds maximum, as this mixture sets up fast.).

I divided the batter, colored, added fragrance blend and it was very thick, so I just tried to get in as many colors and layers as possible into each mold. As stiff as it was, I un-molded the next day.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

In hindsight, I should have had a heightened awareness of how short the stick blending needed to be and error on the lesser side. In spite of setting up fast and the stiffness of the soap, I also should have waited a couple days before un-molding, as the soap touching the bottom of the mold tore away in places.

I also realized that I can the Aloe liquid before the DL-Panthenol, as adding the aloe raised the temperature of the lye liquid and having more liquid would help incorporate the Panthenol easier.

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