Description of Bramble Berry, Bulk Apothecary & NDA Essential & Fragrance oils:
BA Lavender EO: The scent of lavender has shown to have positive effects on mood and can help to alleviate mild feelings of agitation or distress. Lavender has been thought for centuries to arouse passions as an aphrodisiac. This is a bold yet fresh smelling Lavender essential oil, very similar to Lavender Provence. CP: No A, D, R.
BB Spearmint EO: Believed to be an uplifting oil, great for alleviating fatigue and depression. Medicinally it is known for its effects on the digestive system, and for relieving aches and pains. CP: No D, R. (May fade/ accelerate due to age.)
NDA Lemon Myrtle EO: A strong lemon scent that can be used for an uplifting and cleansing effect. Research has shown Lemon to enhance the ability to concentrate.
BB Sweet Meyer Lemon: A lush, Caribbean garden bursting with the aroma of sweet lemons, horned melons, succulent kiwis, and ripe pineapple wedges. Sweet tropical florals complete this island wonder. CP: Discolors to a light ivory/tan, may get slight acceleration.
Use 75 oz batter for 5 lb mold plus 11 oz tube embeds
Embed Heart Tubes: 1.4 skinny Aqua and 1.4 skinny Plum = 11 oz.
Master batch Oils #20: 55 oz Oils (Makes 77 oz /4.8 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.76 oz / 220 grams
Distilled Water: (2.35 oz disc/ 13.5 % disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 16 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Avocado Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
5 oz Scent Blend: Lavender Lemon Mint (Spearmint) 2:1:1
2.5 oz BA Lavender essential oil
1.25 oz BB Spearmint essential oil
0.75 oz BB SMLemon fragrance oil
0.5 oz NDA Lemon Myrtle natural identical essential oil
75 oz batter/Colors/5 oz EO:
42 oz TD White, 2.5 oz Lavender
15 oz BB Plum, 1.25 oz Spearmint, (pour off 1 oz for top)
10 oz BB Aqua Pearl, 0.75 SMLemon, (pour off 1 oz for top)
8 oz TKB Yellow Lemon Pop, 0.5 oz Lemon Myrtle, (pour off 1 oz for top)
(BB = Bramble Berry, TD = Titanium Dioxide, TKB = TKB Trading)
14 oz layer of Plum on bottom (stick blend) (put in fridge to stiffen)
9 oz layer of Aqua Pearl (middle) layer (put in fridge to stiffen)
7 oz layer of Yellow last layer (don’t stick blend, put in fridge to stiffen)
1/3 white, add heart tube embeds & rest of white.
Top with lines of colored batter swirled on top, spritz fine iridescent glitter.
CPOP, 4 hrs, turned on at halfway.
I soaped the lye liquid and oils at 83F & 93F, stick blending very briefly, until barely emulsified (using an immersion blender). I divided up the batter and added the plum color, pouring off an ounce and adding in the spearmint essential oil, then stick blended again until almost medium trace (I knew it would keep thickening after I stopped blending.)
After putting the mold on the scale & taring it, I poured in 14 oz, then banged the mold down to settle it and put it in the fridge to thicken even more.
I then prepped the Aqua color, adding Sweet Meyer Lemon FO, which slowly accelerated and thickened it. When the plum was set, I put the mold on the scale, tarred, and poured in 9 oz of aqua over a spatula. I don’t think the first layer was completely set, as it seemed to move just slightly while doing this.
Back in the refrigerator it went and I prepared the yellow soap. When ready I put the mold back on the scale, tarred, and poured the yellow over a spatula to prevent break through. The yellow really needed to be extremely fluid to pour a perfect layer, but it was not. And it was very thin 7 oz layer, so it was difficult to cover completely and evenly. Put back in the fridge to set.
When it was time to pour the white, the combination of adding titanium dioxide in oil to whiten the soap and using Lavender essential oil, created a very nice thin consistency of light trace. I poured about 1/3 to 1/2 of the batter (again, over a spatula), spritzed the heart tube embeds with alcohol, laid them on top, then poured in the rest of the while.
The 1 oz of aqua set aside was very stiff, so I mixed in a little oil to thin it out. I poured a line of each color of soap lengthwise over the top, then used a thin chopstick to make figure eight swirls, followed by a zig-zag swirl through each color with a toothpick. I spritzed with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, dusted on some fine iridescent glitter, and put in a preheated 150F oven (after turning off) for 4 hours to CPOP.
I could have waited slightly longer before adding the aqua layer over the plum, as the latter wasn’t completely set up. And I mistakenly added the FO to the aqua before pouring off 1 oz for the top, which got really thick with the FO in it.
I chose to keep each scent separate, as I did not want to discolor the plum and white colors with the yellow of the Lemon fragrances. I put some of the lemon in the aqua, as I was okay if it discolored it to a slightly more green hue. (From previous experience, using lemon in purple muddies it up, so I expected it might do the same in the plum or give it a slight orange tinge.)
I should have poured more white into the mold, let it step up longer before placing the heart tube embeds, as they ended up lower than I wanted and in a few bars, the heart went into the yellow layer.
The layers turned out nicer than I expected and the soaps smell wonderful. I love the subtle Clyde Slide swirl in the heart embeds.