Information on Essential Oils used:
Clove: Is an aroma stimulant and an aphrodisiac; it helps with fatigue & depression, the respiratory system, muscle pain, and nausea. And it has analgesic properties.
Litsea Cubeba (May Chang): Used for a Lemon, or a base note in more elusive citrus notes, this is a lovely, uplifting & rejuvenating essential oil. It can also be used to treat acne or oily skin. Its antibacterial and antiviral properties are said to make it effective against common infections like cold and cough. The oil is a tonic for the nervous system and can help with digestive problems as well.
Cinnamon: Properties: Analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, insecticide, stimulant, stomachic.
Eucalyptus: It awakens the mind and opens the lungs. It helps remove exhaustion & mental sluggishness and rejuvenates the spirits of the sick. It has a pleasant aroma and is effective as a deodorant, antibacterial, antiseptic, and antimicrobial agent. Helps to clear sinuses.
Rosemary: Used as decongestant and for muscle pain, it is stimulating & energizing. Best known for its aid in memory and hair loss. (It is also considered a symbol of love, and the sprigs have been traditionally used in wedding ceremonies.)
Use 86 oz batter Pour off 13 oz for embeds.
5 lb mold in 3 layers
1st layer white with eo blend
2nd layer tiger wall pour (no eo, 6 colors)
3rd layer white with eo blend
Use 4 oz EO Blend
4 oz – 114 grams Four Thieves Oil: (accelerates trace)
34% Clove leaf: 1.36 oz 39 grams
30% Litsea 1.20 oz 34 grams
16% Cinnamon: 0.64 oz 18 grams
12% Eucalyptus: 0.48 oz 14 grams
8% Rosemary: 0.32 oz 9 grams
Master Batch Oils #20: 70 oz Oils (Makes 98 oz/6.2 lb soap)
MB Oils: 70 oz/ 1984 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 9.87 oz / 280 grams
Distilled Water: (4.08 oz disc/ 18% disc): 18 oz / 510 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 20 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 20 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Sea Buckthorn Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
86 oz /Colors/4 oz EO Blend:
34 oz TD white 2.2 oz EO
2nd Layer: 24 oz total – use 18 oz; No EO (2.5 oz & .5 oz for top)
4 oz TKB Shimmer Lemon Pop
4 oz BB Nuclear Orange & BB Racing Stripe Orange (yellow)
4 oz BB Fuchsia Pink & BB Raspberry mica
4 oz BB Queens Purple
4 oz BB Caribbean Blue
4 oz CC Granny Smith Apple Green Mica
28 oz TD White 1.8 oz EO
Top with lines of colors (swirled) & fine Iridescent Glitter.
(BB = Bramble Berry; CC = WSP Crafter’s Choice; TD = Titanium Dioxide; TKB = TKB Trading)
I soaped the lye & oils at 84F and 94F, stick blending until a little past emulsified (using an immersion blender). I was really focused on the look of the mix, and didn’t pay enough attention to the time I was blending, which was not the way to go with this soap – but it was minimal, so no huge side effects.
I separated out the batter, then added titanium dioxide to whiten the 34 oz for the first layer – had the mold on the scale, tarred and ready to go. I added 2.2 oz of EO blend, then mixed thoroughly and quickly by hand, and poured into the mold. The pour was perfect, and the acceleration was easy to work with, due to the thin batter.
I then colored the soap for the second layer, titled the mold on it’s side and poured each color on the edge of the mold 3 times for an advanced tiger pour. The batter was a bit sturdier than usual, so I got thicker layers and a nice definition between each layer. I titled upright and put in the fridge to set for about 15 minutes.
When ready, I again set the mold on the scale, tarred and added the rest of the EO blend to 28 oz of batter and mixed quickly. The soap accelerated through medium trace, so it was difficult to get a perfect blend. I had to glop the batter into the mold, trying to do this over a spatula, so as not to disturb the 6 colors underneath.
With the leftover colors I had, I added a tiny bit of oil in each to thin them out and be able to pour one line of each color on the top of the loaf. I then did a figure eight swirl width-wise with a skinny chop stick and a zig-zag swirl length-wise with a toothpick. Spritzed with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, dusted on some fine iridescent glitter, waited for the top to set, then put plastic wrap on top and covered the whole thing in two towels to gel. (I typically use the CPOP method in the oven, but with the high acceleration, I didn’t want this to overheat.)
Over stick blending a few seconds made this batch more difficult to make than usual. Next time it will be easier to do a very minimal blend, separate all the batter, and pour the first layer. Then mix all the colors for the next layer, pour off 1/2-1oz of each color for the top, stick blend the rest a little, then pour that layer. This will give the very defined colors and still have some soap that will be thin enough to work for the top.
Even though the middle layer got slightly wonky, due to the thickness of the top layer, the soap looks and smells wonderful. I really like the new yellow color I am using, it is a brighter yellow than the one I used to use.
The Story Behind The Four Thieves Blend:
The Bubonic Plague wreaked havoc in Europe off and on for about 600 years before peaking in the 1300s. Century after century, as late as the 1700s, outbreaks claimed up to half the population.
During the plague a group of four brothers began robbing the dead. At first, they were largely ignored, as everyone knew they would eventually pay the price by catching the contagion themselves but, to everyone’s surprise, they managed to avoid the disease and continued robbing graves, amassing a great deal of wealth. They became legendary and everyone wanted to know how they evaded the sickness.
When they were finally captured, they were asked for their secret during questioning. After much debating, they agreed to share their methods in return for their pardon.
These men were the offspring of a perfumer and herbalist. They learned about essential oils from their parents during their childhood. They knew these oils would protect them so they rubbed them on their bodies and used them to clean anything they brought back. The powerful blend is now called Four Thieves. (They did use these oils & herbs in vinegar, and the vinegar probably played a big part in their wellness too).
An interesting note: There is a period of time when physicians wore dark robes, wide-brimmed hats, & masks with long beaks. These beaks held dried herbs, spices and essential oils which the physician breathed. The robe was doused with a similar fragrant concoction. (Scientific evidence today is building support for these actions.)