Description of Bramble Berry, Bulk Apothecary, & Essential Depot Essential Oils:
BA Lavender 40/42: The “40/42” refers to the balance of Linalool and Linalyl acetate esters, which is what gives it such a consistent floral scent but also means it is standardized in a lab to ensure consistency in smell. It also has a balsamic woody undertone with a floral, herbaceous fresh scent. CP: Water White.
BA Litsea (May Chang): Used for Lemon, or a base note in more elusive citrus notes. The scent of can be compared to Lemongrass, although the former is often described as “finer” and “sweeter” than the latter. Like most citrus oils, its scent is immediately uplifting and rejuvenating, which makes it very useful for combating emotional problems and psychological issues. It is used to treat acne and oily skin. CP: Discolors Yellow.
BB Rosemary: Best known for its aid in memory and hair loss, this distinctive smelling essential oil is considered stimulating in nature and is often found in energizing blends. It is also considered a symbol of love, and the sprigs have been traditionally used in wedding ceremonies. CP: Water white, no A or D.
BB & ED Tea Tree (Melaleuca): Has a minty, earthy smell that leaves you energized & revitalized. Tea tree oil can be used to treat a wide variety of medical conditions and shows promise as an antimicrobial. It may be effective in a variety of dermatologic conditions including dandruff, acne, lice, herpes, and other skin infections. CP: Water White.
Why Meadowfoam & Tamanu Oils?
Meadowfoam Oil: This oil is moisturizing & rejuvenating; creates a creamy lather; adds a silky, smooth feel to products. It is composed of 98% long-chain fatty acids, with a very high level of oxidative stability, which extends the shelf life of other oils. It provides great emollience without being overly greasy; absorbed quickly and gives a lighter feel than many other oils, retaining scents longer. The oil is extracted from the seeds of a Pacific Northwest native annual flowering plant called Limananthes alba.
Tamanu Oil: Greenish-black in color and very thick, it smells like butter pecan ice cream or Kahlua, and is quite pleasant. The oils of the seed and root have been used to treat wounds: it has been topically applied to treat various ailments such as cuts, scrapes, burns, insect bites and stings, abrasions, acne and acne scars, psoriasis, diabetic sores, anal fissures, sunburn, dry or scaly skin, blisters, eczema, herpes sores, scars, and to reduce foot and body odor. The oil has also been topically applied to the neck area to treat sore throat and used directly on scars to fade them.
Thousands of years ago, the natives of Tahiti found a large, strange tree growing near the ocean. They soon found that the dried nuts from this tree, which they name the “ati” tree, contained a special oil that they used to improve the look and feel of their skin. There is a very small supply of Tamanu oil in the world because of the small growing area. It takes a full 100 kilograms of Tamanu fruit (which is the annual production of one adult tree) to make just 5 kilograms of cold pressed Tamanu oil.
18 bar mold, with negative impression mat on bottom; tiny heart & bird embeds on top.
Add 3 oz/5.4% each of Meadowfoam & Tamanu oils to Master Batch oils.
2:1:2:1 Lavender, Litsea (May Chang), Rosemary, & Tea Tree (Melaleuca)
Pour lines of color, then swirl with chopstick in chevron patter.
Add tiny heart & bird embeds.
Put in 150F oven for 4 hours, then un-mold while still warm.
Salt Master batch Oils #2: 50 oz Oils Plus 3 oz each Meadowfoam & Tamanu (Makes 80 oz soap – plus 30 oz PH Salt = 110 oz/ 6.875 lb total)
SMB Oils: 50 oz/ 1417 grams
Plus: Meadowfoam Oil: 3 oz/ 85 grams
Plus: Tamanu Oil: 3 oz/ 85 grams
NaOH/Lye 10% SF: 8.23 oz / 233 grams
1:1 Aloe & Distilled Water (2.48 oz disc; 13% disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Carrot Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Chamomile Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Fine Pink Himalayan Salt: 30 oz (by weight)
Essential Oil Blend (2:1:2:1) 6 oz:
2 oz Lavender
1 oz Litsea (May Chang)
2 oz Rosemary
1 oz Tea Tree (Melaleuca)
(25.5 oz batter each color including salts)
18+ oz Blue (Alkanet Root in oil), 7.5 oz PH Salt (+ Ultra Marine Blue)
18+ oz Yellow (Annatto seeds in oil), 7.5 oz PH Salt
18+ oz Pink (Madder root in oil), 7.5 oz PH Salt (+ Dark Red Brazilian Clay and TD)
18+ oz Purple Brazilian Clay in water, 7.5 oz PH Salt (+ Queens’ Purple Mica and TD)
30 oz salt – 7.5 oz PH salt in each container
I’m not sure what I was thinking using the Tamanu oil – it’s extremely dark and even such a small amount turned all the oil green. With the delicate colors I was using, I really needed the clearest oil possible.
I soaped my lye liquid and oils at 118F & 126F, once again getting busy while waiting for the lye to cool and soaping lower than 130F, which seems to be ideal. After stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender), the batter turned a very dark yellow that none of the botanicals in oils could combat (except the Annatto seed, which is yellow anyway.)
I had wanted to go very natural with this batch, but the discolor from the Tamanu oil prevented this. I had to add some mica’s & clays to help adjust the colors. This was the first time using Purple Brazilian Clay and I should have previously tested it, as it turned a brown color (which may have been from the yellow batter too).
It was a frustrating session because of these issues. I had wanted to do a Clyde Slide swirl, but went with pouring lines of colors, as I was worried the large amounts of clay for coloring would accelerate those colors – which it did a little, but not enough to cause problems. I made a chevron patter throughout, using a chop stick; added the dividers and tiny birds & heart embeds on top.
The light pink embeds were made earlier using Madder Root in oil; black (dark blue) from Alkanet Root; yellow from Annatto seeds; and the purple embed used Queens Purple Mica.
I covered the soap and put into a 150F pre-heated the oven for 4 hours, leaving it on for the first 30 minutes and rewarmed it to 150F at 3 hours, then turned it off again. The soap was still warm when I took it out and I waited 20 minutes until un-molding – all the bars came out easily.
Bottom after unmolding, before removing dividers. The colors are already starting to lighten up a bit and morph a little.
Back of Soaps:
In spite of all the color issues I had, these turned out well, although they started out a bit darker than I had wanted. (There was more fading when curing and they now look prettier than the photos.)
I look forward to trying the Purple Brazilian Clay again, using a lighter batch of oils and hope that it turns purple without having to add any mica.
Check out more Salt Bars on the links below:
Eucalyptus Mint Tree PH Salt with Neem & Tamanu oils. Plus Unscented PH Salt Bars
LLP: Lavender Lemongrass Peppermint Pink Himalayan Salt & Dead Sea Salt
Unscented Pink Himalayan Salt & Dead Sea Salt Soap with clay & plant colorants
Pink Himalayan Salt Test Soap Batch with Tamanu & Neem Oils
Eucalyptus Mint Tree with Neem Oil & tiny embeds
Grapefruit, Kumquat & Lime with tiny embeds
2 Batches: Unscented and Lavender, Moroccan Mint, Tea Tree, Ylang Ylang, Clary Sage & Black Tea Blend
Orange Lemongrass Patchouli & Unscented
Lemongrass, Lavender, Rosemary, Peppermint
Peach Mango Kumquat with Aloe & Coconut water
POGY: Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu
For Salt Bar Recipes, click on these links:
Salt Master Batch Oils #1
Salt Master Batch Oils #2 (“Everything But the Kitchen Sink”)