Four Thieves #25 in Advanced Tiger Stripe and Layers

Information on Essential Oils used:
Clove: Is an aroma stimulant and an aphrodisiac; it helps with fatigue & depression, the respiratory system, muscle pain, and nausea. And it has analgesic properties.
Litsea Cubeba (May Chang): Used for a Lemon, or a base note in more elusive citrus notes, this is a lovely, uplifting & rejuvenating essential oil. It can also be used to treat acne or oily skin. Its antibacterial and antiviral properties are said to make it effective against common infections like cold and cough. The oil is a tonic for the nervous system and can help with digestive problems as well.
Cinnamon: Properties: Analgesic, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, carminative, insecticide, stimulant, stomachic.
Eucalyptus: It awakens the mind and opens the lungs. It helps remove exhaustion & mental sluggishness and rejuvenates the spirits of the sick. It has a pleasant aroma and is effective as a deodorant, antibacterial, antiseptic, and antimicrobial agent. Helps to clear sinuses.
Rosemary: Used as decongestant and for muscle pain, it is stimulating & energizing. Best known for its aid in memory and hair loss. (It is also considered a symbol of love, and the sprigs have been traditionally used in wedding ceremonies.)

The Plan:

The Plan:
Use 86 oz batter Pour off 13 oz for embeds.
5 lb mold in 3 layers
1st layer white with eo blend
2nd layer tiger wall pour (no eo, 6 colors)
3rd layer white with eo blend
Use 4 oz EO Blend

4 oz – 114 grams Four Thieves Oil: (accelerates trace)
34% Clove leaf: 1.36 oz 39 grams
30% Litsea 1.20 oz 34 grams
16% Cinnamon: 0.64 oz 18 grams
12% Eucalyptus: 0.48 oz 14 grams
8% Rosemary: 0.32 oz 9 grams

Master Batch Oils #20: 70 oz Oils (Makes 98 oz/6.2 lb soap)
MB Oils: 70 oz/ 1984 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 9.87 oz / 280 grams
Distilled Water: (4.08 oz disc/ 18% disc): 18 oz / 510 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 20 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 20 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Sea Buckthorn Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

86 oz /Colors/4 oz EO Blend:
1st Layer:
34 oz TD white 2.2 oz EO
2nd Layer: 24 oz total – use 18 oz; No EO (2.5 oz & .5 oz for top)
4 oz TKB Shimmer Lemon Pop
4 oz BB Nuclear Orange & BB Racing Stripe Orange (yellow)
4 oz BB Fuchsia Pink & BB Raspberry mica
4 oz BB Queens Purple
4 oz BB Caribbean Blue
4 oz CC Granny Smith Apple Green Mica
3rd Layer:
28 oz TD White 1.8 oz EO
Top with lines of colors (swirled) & fine Iridescent Glitter.
(BB = Bramble Berry; CC = WSP Crafter’s Choice; TD = Titanium Dioxide; TKB = TKB Trading)

The Reality:

I soaped the lye & oils at 84F and 94F, stick blending until a little past emulsified (using an immersion blender). I was really focused on the look of the mix, and didn’t pay enough attention to the time I was blending, which was not the way to go with this soap – but it was minimal, so no huge side effects.

I separated out the batter, then added titanium dioxide to whiten the 34 oz for the first layer – had the mold on the scale, tarred and ready to go. I added 2.2 oz of EO blend, then mixed thoroughly and quickly by hand, and poured into the mold. The pour was perfect, and the acceleration was easy to work with, due to the thin batter.

I then colored the soap for the second layer, titled the mold on it’s side and poured each color on the edge of the mold 3 times for an advanced tiger pour. The batter was a bit sturdier than usual, so I got thicker layers and a nice definition between each layer. I titled upright and put in the fridge to set for about 15 minutes.

When ready, I again set the mold on the scale, tarred and added the rest of the EO blend to 28 oz of batter and mixed quickly. The soap accelerated through medium trace, so it was difficult to get a perfect blend. I had to glop the batter into the mold, trying to do this over a spatula, so as not to disturb the 6 colors underneath.

With the leftover colors I had, I added a tiny bit of oil in each to thin them out and be able to pour one line of each color on the top of the loaf. I then did a figure eight swirl width-wise with a skinny chop stick and a zig-zag swirl length-wise with a toothpick. Spritzed with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, dusted on some fine iridescent glitter, waited for the top to set, then put plastic wrap on top and covered the whole thing in two towels to gel. (I typically use the CPOP method in the oven, but with the high acceleration, I didn’t want this to overheat.)

The Cut:

Conclusions:

Over stick blending a few seconds made this batch more difficult to make than usual. Next time it will be easier to do a very minimal blend, separate all the batter, and pour the first layer. Then mix all the colors for the next layer, pour off 1/2-1oz of each color for the top, stick blend the rest a little, then pour that layer. This will give the very defined colors and still have some soap that will be thin enough to work for the top.

Even though the middle layer got slightly wonky, due to the thickness of the top layer, the soap looks and smells wonderful. I really like the new yellow color I am using, it is a brighter yellow than the one I used to use.

The Story Behind The Four Thieves Blend:

The Bubonic Plague wreaked havoc in Europe off and on for about 600 years before peaking in the 1300s. Century after century, as late as the 1700s, outbreaks claimed up to half the population.

During the plague a group of four brothers began robbing the dead. At first, they were largely ignored, as everyone knew they would eventually pay the price by catching the contagion themselves but, to everyone’s surprise, they managed to avoid the disease and continued robbing graves, amassing a great deal of wealth. They became legendary and everyone wanted to know how they evaded the sickness.

When they were finally captured, they were asked for their secret during questioning. After much debating, they agreed to share their methods in return for their pardon.

These men were the offspring of a perfumer and herbalist. They learned about essential oils from their parents during their childhood. They knew these oils would protect them so they rubbed them on their bodies and used them to clean anything they brought back. The powerful blend is now called Four Thieves. (They did use these oils & herbs in vinegar, and the vinegar probably played a big part in their wellness too).

An interesting note: There is a period of time when physicians wore dark robes, wide-brimmed hats, & masks with long beaks. These beaks held dried herbs, spices and essential oils which the physician breathed. The robe was doused with a similar fragrant concoction. (Scientific evidence today is building support for these actions.)

Lavender eo soap with layers and 2 heart tube embeds

Description of Bramble Berry & Bulk Apothecary Lavender 40/42 essential oil:
The scent of lavender has shown to have positive effects on mood and can help to alleviate mild feelings of agitation or distress. Lavender has been thought for centuries to arouse passions as an aphrodisiac. This is a bold yet fresh smelling Lavender essential oil, very similar to Lavender Provence. CP: No A, D, R.

The Plan:

Use 74 oz batter for 5 lb mold plus 12? oz heart tube embeds.
Embed Heart Tubes: 1 fat Queens Purple, 0.6 Skinny Queens Purple, 1 fat Plum, 0.6 Skinny Plum.

Master batch Oils #20: 55 oz Oils (Makes 77 oz /4.8 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.76 oz / 220 grams
Distilled Water: (2.35 oz disc/ 13.5 % disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 16 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Avocado Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Sea Buckthorn Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

74 oz batter/Colors/5 oz EO: (Use 2.5 BB & 2.5 BA eo’s)
Add EO to batter, then separate:
48 oz TD White (in distilled water)
15 oz BB Queens Purple (pour off 1 oz for top)
11 oz BB Plum (pour off 1 oz for top)

Layers:
14 oz layer of Queen’s Purple on bottom (stick blend & in fridge to stiffen) (20 min)
10 oz layer of Plum (next layer) (put in fridge to stiffen) (20 min in fridge)
1/2 white, add heart tube embeds & rest of white.
Top with lines of colored batter swirled on top, spritz fine iridescent glitter.
Refrigerate until set, then put in freezer for 24 hours to prevent milk from overheating.
(BB = Bramble Berry, TD = Titanium Dioxide)

The Reality:

I soaped the lye and oils at 88F & 94F, stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender), then mixed in the Lavender essential oil. After separating out the batter, I colored & blended the Queens Purple layer a bit more to thicken, put the mold on the scale, tared, and poured 14 oz of the purple. Then put in the fridge for 20 minutes to stiffen.

I prepped the plum color (no extra stick blending), and when the first layer was ready, put the mold on the scale, tared again, and added 10 oz of the batter in the mold – pouring over a spatula to prevent break through into the other layer. Then put back into the refrigerator for another 20 minutes to set.

I prepared the white soap and spritzed the heart tube embeds. I added about half of the white (pouring over a spatula again) and then attempted to set the hearts in it, but it was too thin, so I waited 10-15 minutes, then slowly set the heart tubes into the batter. Then topped off with more white soap.

I took the extra purple & plum and poured 2 rows of each lengthwise across the top of the loaf, then swirled with a thin chopstick in a figure eight pattern widthwise. I used a toothpick to create a zig-zag pattern lengthwise down the mold; spritzed with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, then with fine iridescent glitter and put in a pre-heated 150F oven (turned off) for 4-5 hours, bringing back up to temperature at the half way mark.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

These bars turned out quite lovely. I am especially pleased with the Clyde Slide swirl inside each of the heart tube embeds – they are very well defined and have some beautiful patterns. I could have possibly put the embeds slightly lower, but in the last soap I made, they were a bit too low. Working blindly, it’s difficult to tell how deep they are in the mold.

Lavender Lemon Mint soap with heart tube embeds

Description of Bramble Berry, Bulk Apothecary & NDA Essential & Fragrance oils:
BA Lavender EO: The scent of lavender has shown to have positive effects on mood and can help to alleviate mild feelings of agitation or distress. Lavender has been thought for centuries to arouse passions as an aphrodisiac. This is a bold yet fresh smelling Lavender essential oil, very similar to Lavender Provence. CP: No A, D, R.
BB Spearmint EO: Believed to be an uplifting oil, great for alleviating fatigue and depression. Medicinally it is known for its effects on the digestive system, and for relieving aches and pains. CP: No D, R. (May fade/ accelerate due to age.)
NDA Lemon Myrtle EO: A strong lemon scent that can be used for an uplifting and cleansing effect. Research has shown Lemon to enhance the ability to concentrate.
BB Sweet Meyer Lemon: A lush, Caribbean garden bursting with the aroma of sweet lemons, horned melons, succulent kiwis, and ripe pineapple wedges. Sweet tropical florals complete this island wonder. CP: Discolors to a light ivory/tan, may get slight acceleration.

The Plan:

The Plan:
Use 75 oz batter for 5 lb mold plus 11 oz tube embeds
Embed Heart Tubes: 1.4 skinny Aqua and 1.4 skinny Plum = 11 oz.

Master batch Oils #20: 55 oz Oils (Makes 77 oz /4.8 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.76 oz / 220 grams
Distilled Water: (2.35 oz disc/ 13.5 % disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 16 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Avocado Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

5 oz Scent Blend: Lavender Lemon Mint (Spearmint) 2:1:1
2.5 oz BA Lavender essential oil
1.25 oz BB Spearmint essential oil
0.75 oz BB SMLemon fragrance oil
0.5 oz NDA Lemon Myrtle natural identical essential oil

75 oz batter/Colors/5 oz EO:
42 oz TD White, 2.5 oz Lavender
15 oz BB Plum, 1.25 oz Spearmint, (pour off 1 oz for top)
10 oz BB Aqua Pearl, 0.75 SMLemon, (pour off 1 oz for top)
8 oz TKB Yellow Lemon Pop, 0.5 oz Lemon Myrtle, (pour off 1 oz for top)
(BB = Bramble Berry, TD = Titanium Dioxide, TKB = TKB Trading)

Layers:
14 oz layer of Plum on bottom (stick blend) (put in fridge to stiffen)
9 oz layer of Aqua Pearl (middle) layer (put in fridge to stiffen)
7 oz layer of Yellow last layer (don’t stick blend, put in fridge to stiffen)
1/3 white, add heart tube embeds & rest of white.
Top with lines of colored batter swirled on top, spritz fine iridescent glitter.
CPOP, 4 hrs, turned on at halfway.

The Reality:

I soaped the lye liquid and oils at 83F & 93F, stick blending very briefly, until barely emulsified (using an immersion blender). I divided up the batter and added the plum color, pouring off an ounce and adding in the spearmint essential oil, then stick blended again until almost medium trace (I knew it would keep thickening after I stopped blending.)

After putting the mold on the scale & taring it, I poured in 14 oz, then banged the mold down to settle it and put it in the fridge to thicken even more.

I then prepped the Aqua color, adding Sweet Meyer Lemon FO, which slowly accelerated and thickened it. When the plum was set, I put the mold on the scale, tarred, and poured in 9 oz of aqua over a spatula. I don’t think the first layer was completely set, as it seemed to move just slightly while doing this.

Back in the refrigerator it went and I prepared the yellow soap. When ready I put the mold back on the scale, tarred, and poured the yellow over a spatula to prevent break through. The yellow really needed to be extremely fluid to pour a perfect layer, but it was not. And it was very thin 7 oz layer, so it was difficult to cover completely and evenly. Put back in the fridge to set.

When it was time to pour the white, the combination of adding titanium dioxide in oil to whiten the soap and using Lavender essential oil, created a very nice thin consistency of light trace. I poured about 1/3 to 1/2 of the batter (again, over a spatula), spritzed the heart tube embeds with alcohol, laid them on top, then poured in the rest of the while.

The 1 oz of aqua set aside was very stiff, so I mixed in a little oil to thin it out. I poured a line of each color of soap lengthwise over the top, then used a thin chopstick to make figure eight swirls, followed by a zig-zag swirl through each color with a toothpick. I spritzed with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, dusted on some fine iridescent glitter, and put in a preheated 150F oven (after turning off) for 4 hours to CPOP.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

I could have waited slightly longer before adding the aqua layer over the plum, as the latter wasn’t completely set up. And I mistakenly added the FO to the aqua before pouring off 1 oz for the top, which got really thick with the FO in it.

I chose to keep each scent separate, as I did not want to discolor the plum and white colors with the yellow of the Lemon fragrances. I put some of the lemon in the aqua, as I was okay if it discolored it to a slightly more green hue. (From previous experience, using lemon in purple muddies it up, so I expected it might do the same in the plum or give it a slight orange tinge.)

I should have poured more white into the mold, let it step up longer before placing the heart tube embeds, as they ended up lower than I wanted and in a few bars, the heart went into the yellow layer.

The layers turned out nicer than I expected and the soaps smell wonderful. I love the subtle Clyde Slide swirl in the heart embeds.

POGY – Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu Shampoo bars

Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Pineapple Cilantro: A ripe, realistic pineapple scent, with hints of coconut, orange, cilantro, vanilla, musk. CP: Slight peach color.
Orange Essential Oil: The scent of Sweet Orange is warming, comforting and “fodder for the heart”. It encourages you take things in good humor and absolves emotional confusion. It is stimulating & uplifting and good for colds & other ailments. CP: Discolors orange (after curing turns beige).
Pink Grapefruit: This is an exhilarating, wake-me-up citrus, with a juicy grapefruit aroma. Grapefruit is believed by aromatherapists to be a spiritual up-lifter, and to ease muscle fatigue and stiffness. It is also said to be a purifier of congested, oily and acne prone skin. Grapefruit is reputed to ease nervous exhaustion and relieve depression. CP: Water white.
Yuzu: A fresh and sparkling light Japanese citrus. It is also referred to as Japanese Grapefruit; with top notes of mandarin, tangerine, lemon satsuma, and ruby red grapefruit. A very subtle fragrance. CP: No A, R, D Very light. Water white.

Additives that Helps Promotes hair growth and decrease hair loss:
Aloe Vera liquid: Restores scalp health by conditioning it while balancing sebum production and pH levels. This, not only curbs hair loss, but it also promotes hair regrowth.
Argan oil: Contains lots of vitamin E, omega 3 and 9 fatty acids, and antioxidants, all of which do amazing things for damaged, dry, coarse or otherwise unmanageable hair.
Avocado oil: The proteins will help fill in damaged areas in your hair’s cuticles, repairing damage that’s already been done and preventing future breakage and frizz
Coconut oil: High in vitamin E and other nutrients, and your hair can absorb them all. The result will be hair that is thicker, shiner, healthier and has stronger roots. It also contains lauric and capric acid, which have amazing antimicrobial powers – meaning it will make your hair and scalp healthier and prevent dandruff, itchy scalp and infections.
DL-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5): Improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces redness and inflammation, increases wound healing by stimulating skin epithelialization, improves skin barrier mechanism repair, mitigates itching and soothes irritation, and behaves as a humectant.
Jojoba oil: High in vitamins A, E and D and is great for all hair types. It helps repair damage to your hair and promotes new, healthy hair growth.
Moringa oil and powder: Contains thiocyanate which strengthens the hair follicles and prevents hair fall. It is used as a natural conditioner and promotes new hair growth.
Neem oil & powder: Has high anti-bacterial properties and improves blood circulation to the scalp, which is helpful in tackling thinning hair and premature graying. It also helps to boost hair growth.
Nettle extract: Stimulates the scalp, improves blood circulation and protects against further damage and breakage.
Olive Oil: Promotes hair growth.
Silk Amino Acids: Can penetrate very deeply into the hair cortex to strengthen and repair hair. It protects hair from moisture loss and conditions it to provide a silky smoothness.

The Plan:

6 Chrysanthemum & 6 Sunflower molds – with clyde slide swirl or layering.

Shampoo Master Batch Oils #3: 34 oz oils, 50 oz soap/3 lbs
SMB Oils: 34 oz/ 964 grams
NaOH/Lye 3% SF: 4.86 oz/ 138 grams
1:1 Cold Aloe Juice & Cold Distilled Water: (1.88 disc): 10 oz/283 grams
Nettle Extract (3%): 28 grams (add to oils)
Sodium Lactate: 10 grams (add to oils)
Silk Amino Acids: 10 grams (add to lye water when hot)
DL-Panthenol (3%): 28 grams (add to lye water 130F)

Note: Add NaOH to 5 oz cold water, then added silk hot and panthenol at 130F.
When dissolved, slowly added 5 oz cold Aloe to side of container.
Combine Oils & Lye: Stick blend for 2 seconds, add EO blend, then mix by hand.

Scent Blend 3 oz Total:
Mix together:
1 oz Pink Grapefruit (water white)
1 oz Yuzu (water white) (if not enough, use more grapefruit)
Mix together:
0.5 oz Pineapple (slight peach discolor)
0.5 oz 10x Orange (discolor orange

50 oz Batter/Colors/ 2.4 oz EO/FO blend:
26 oz TD white, 1.5 oz Yuzu & Grapefruit
8 oz BB Fired Up Fuchsia Pink, 0.5 oz mix Yuzu & Grapefruit
8 oz TKB #10 Yellow, 0.5 oz mix pineapple & orange
8 oz BB Chrome Green Oxide, with 0.25 tsp Moringa powder & 0.15 tsp Neem powder in oil, 0.5 oz mix pineapple & orange
Clyde Slide swirl and/or layers.

The Reality:

After mixing the lye in 5 oz of water thoroughly, I added the silk amino acids and had to mix the fine powder in methodically to get it all combined. At 130F, I added the DL-Panthenol, which clumped up quite a bit and was difficult to get combined. Then I added the cold Aloe liquid, which raised up the temperature 20F degrees.

I soaped the lye liquid and oils at 90F degrees, stick blending (using an immersion blender). Problems started immediately, as I forgot to start counting the seconds of blending. I stopped, assessed and stick blended for 2 more seconds – which was way too much! The first blending was probably more than I needed (I was wanting only 4 seconds maximum, as this mixture sets up fast.).

I divided the batter, colored, added fragrance blend and it was very thick, so I just tried to get in as many colors and layers as possible into each mold. As stiff as it was, I un-molded the next day.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

In hindsight, I should have had a heightened awareness of how short the stick blending needed to be and error on the lesser side. In spite of setting up fast and the stiffness of the soap, I also should have waited a couple days before un-molding, as the soap touching the bottom of the mold tore away in places.

I also realized that I can the Aloe liquid before the DL-Panthenol, as adding the aloe raised the temperature of the lye liquid and having more liquid would help incorporate the Panthenol easier.

Lavender Lemongrass Peppermint Pink Himalayan Salt Soap (6 with white plane embeds)

Description of Bramble Berry & Bulk Apothecary Essential Oils:
BB & BA Lavender 40/42: Similar to Lavender Provence essential oil, this is a mixture of lavender’s: 40/42 blends different kinds of Lavender for a consistent blend. The aroma can have a soothing effects on people suffering from stress, anxiety, and illness. CP: Water White, no A, D, R.
BA Lemongrass: Known for its invigorating and antiseptic properties, its astringent properties help fight acne and greasy skin. CP: has staying power; discolors yellow.
BB Peppermint 1st Distill: Smells minty fresh, like peppermint gum; herbaceous, sweet smelling; can improve mental performance, cognitive function, & digestion. CP: Water White, very potent.

The Plan:

Make 86 oz batter.
18 bar mold: 86 oz soap, 28 oz salt, & 3 oz embeds (6 embeds – rest of bars embed free)
(4:1.5:1.5) EO Blend Lavender, Lemongrass, Peppermint.

Salt MB Oils #4: 60 oz Oils (Makes 86 oz/5.375 lb – plus 28 oz PH Salt=114 oz/7.125 lb)
MB Oils: 60 oz/ 1701 grams
NaOH/Lye 10% SF: 9 oz/255 grams
1:1 Aloe Juice & Distilled Water: (2.8 oz/14% disc): 17 oz/482 grams
Kaolin Clay (1%): 17 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (2%): 34 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Fine Pink Himalayan Salt: 28 oz (by weight)

Essential Oil Blend (4:1.5:1.5) = 7 oz:
4 oz Lavender (1:1 BB & BA)
1.5 oz Lemongrass
1.5 oz Peppermint

86 oz Batter/Colors/28 oz PH Salt; 7 oz EO’s:
21.5 oz TD White, 7 oz PH Salt
21.5 oz BB Caribbean blue, 7 oz PH Salt
21.5 oz BB Aqua pearl mica, 7 oz PH Salt
21.5 oz BB Radiant Plum mica, 7 oz PH Salt
(28.5 batter total each container, including salts)
Add EO Blend into all of batter, then divide.
Pour lines of color.
Starburst swirl and then circle swirl with chopstick.
Add Airplane Embeds on top of 6 bars.
CPOP 6 hours, un-mold.

The Reality:

I soaped the lye liquid and oils at 90F & 95F, stick blending (using an immersion blender); then adding the essential oil blend and stick blending a little more. The salt soap seems to always be very fluid and takes a long time to come to a light trace where it is pourable without getting muddied. But that was not the case this time. Blending a bit longer and the fragrance accelerating were both contributing factors.

By the time I had divided up the batter to add coloring, it was already thick. I quickly added colors (mixing the white last, as titanium dioxide tends to thicken a bit more.) Then added the salt, which usually thins the batter out, but it only helped a tiny bit this time. So the process turned into globing lines of color in the mold and banging it down frequently. It was frustrating and disappointing.

I then did a starburst swirl and a circle swirl with a thin chopstick and pounded down the mold some more, added the dividers, and put the six airplane embeds in the 2 middle bars and the four corner bars, as I figured they would be the lightest bars.

I spritzed with 91% Isopropyl alcohol, then sprinkled fine iridescent glitter on top; put in a 150F preheated oven, turned it off for 3 hours, brought back up to heat, then off again for 3 hours. Then un-molded when still slightly warm.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

Obviously next time I need to add the scent blend before doing any stick blending – and blending until just emulsified. If no acceleration from the fragrances, I can blend a little longer or just wait for it to set up to the desired consistency (which is what I usually do).

Despite the difficulties I had making this soap, I think it turned out really nice.

POGY – Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu Pink Himalayan Salt soap in starburst and circle swirl with plumeria flower embeds

Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Pineapple Cilantro: A ripe, realistic pineapple scent, with hints of coconut, orange, cilantro, vanilla, musk. CP: Slight peach color.
10x Orange Essential Oil: The scent of Sweet Orange is warming, comforting and “fodder for the heart”. It encourages you take things in good humor and absolves emotional confusion. It is stimulating & uplifting and good for colds & other ailments. CP: Discolors orange (after curing turns beige).
Pink Grapefruit: This is an exhilarating, wake-me-up citrus, with a juicy grapefruit aroma. Grapefruit is believed by aromatherapists to be a spiritual up-lifter, and to ease muscle fatigue and stiffness. It is also said to be a purifier of congested, oily and acne prone skin. Grapefruit is reputed to ease nervous exhaustion and relieve depression. CP: Water white.
Yuzu: A fresh and sparkling light Japanese citrus. It is also referred to as Japanese Grapefruit; with top notes of mandarin, tangerine, lemon satsuma, and ruby red grapefruit. A very subtle fragrance. CP: No A, R, D Very light. Water white.

The Plan

18 bar mold.
Lines of color, starburst and circle swirl with plumeria flower embeds on top.

Salt MB Oils #4: 60 oz Oils (Makes 86 oz/5.375 lb – plus 28 oz PH Salt=114 oz/7.125 lb)
MB Oils: 60 oz/ 1701 grams
NaOH/Lye 10% SF: 9 oz/255 grams
Aloe Juice & Distilled Water: (2.8 oz/14% disc): 17 oz/482 grams (8 oz Aloe, 9 oz water)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 17 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (2%): 34 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Fine Pink Himalayan Salt: 28 oz (by weight)

POGY Scent 7 oz:
1.5 oz Pineapple; 1.5 oz 10X Orange; 2 oz Pink Grapefruit; 2 oz Yuzu

86 oz Batter/Colors/EO-FO/ 28 oz PH Salt:
22 oz TKB #10 Lake Yellow & TKB Shimmer Lemon Pop yellow 1.5 oz Pineapple FO, + 7 oz PH Salt
18 oz BB Sunset & Neon Orange, 1.5 oz 10X Orange EO, + 6 oz PH Salt
18 oz BB Hydrated Green Chrome Oxide, 1.25 oz Pink Grapefruit FO, + 6 oz PH Salt
10 oz BB Radiant Plum, 0.75 oz Pink Grapefruit FO, + 3 oz PH Salt
10 oz MM Pink Lemonade, 1 oz Yuzu FO, + 3 oz PH Salt
10 oz BB Caribbean Blue, 1 oz Yuzu FO, + 3 oz PH Salt

Use 111 oz batter.
Pour lines of color.
Starburst swirl and then circle swirl with chopstick.
Add 3 oz embeds on top.
CPOP 5 hours, un-mold.
(Extra batter in single & sample molds)
(BB = Bramble Berry; MM + Mica’s & More; TKB = TKB Trading)

The Reality

I soaped the lye and oils at 90F & 88F, stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender). After dividing up the batter, I colored, added fragrance, then mixed in fine pink himalayan salt. The batter was very fluid and stayed that way throughout the process.

I poured lines of color, then made a starburst swirl and a circle swirl with a small chopstick; added the dividers and the embeds, spritzed with fine iridescent glitter, then put in a pre-heated 150F oven, left it off for 3 hours, then turned back on to bring up to temperature and waited another 3 hours before removing and un-molding.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

Everything worked very well with making this beautiful soap and I was really pleased with the outcome.

Sweet Meyer Lemon Blackberry soap in diaginal layer with yellow heart tube embed

Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Sweet Meyer Lemon: A lush, Caribbean garden bursting with the aroma of sweet lemons, horned melons, succulent kiwis, and ripe pineapple wedges. Sweet tropical florals complete this island wonder. CP: Discolors to a light ivory/tan, may get slight acceleration.
Blackberry Cybilla: This ripe and juicy fragrance oil will take you back to the days of picking sweet blackberries off the vine during the long days of summer. CP: No A or R. .5% Vanilla. turns very green. (No green with VS added)
Black Tea: Smoky tea leaves with tobacco overtones; top notes of Bergamot, Sicilian Lemon, & orange; jasmine, cedar wood, amber, musk. CP: No discolor.

The Plan:

5 lb mold – 1.6 Yellow Heart Tube embeds
Yellow on bottom angle (weigh soap container before & after pouring)
Queens Purple on top with 1 Fat & 0.6 Skinny Yellow Heart Tubes
Use 78 batter. Pour off extra 20 oz for embeds (11 oz for heart tubes)

Master Batch Oils #20: 70 oz Oils (Makes 98 oz/6.2 lb soap)
MB Oils: 70 oz/ 1984 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 9.87 oz / 280 grams
Distilled Water: (4.08 oz disc/ 18% disc): 18 oz / 510 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 20 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 20 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Avocado Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

FO Blend (5.2 oz FO):
1 oz Black Tea
2.2 oz Sweet Meyer Lemon
2 oz Blackberry Cybillia (used 2.05 oz)
0.8 oz Vanilla Stabilizer (used 0.85 oz)

78 oz Batter/Colors/FO Blend (5.2 FO + 0.75 oz VS = 5.95 oz Blend)
1st Layer:
43 oz TKB #10 Lake Yellow & BB Fizzy Lemonade yellow, 3.3 oz FO/VS blend
(Pour off 1 oz before adding FO)
2nd Layer:
35 oz BB Queens Purple, 2.65 oz FO/VS blend
1 Yellow Fat Heart Tube & 0.6 Skinny Heart Tube Embed (7.35 oz)

Pour off 1 oz of yellow before adding FO.
1st layer at an angle, let set. (First weigh bowl with batter, pour & re-weigh to get right amount of soap into mold.)
After set, pour half of purple, add embed, pour rest.
Top with 1 oz of yellow soap and swirl.
(BB = Bramble Berry; TKB = TKB Trading; VS = NG Vanilla Stabilizer)

The Reality:

I soaped the lye and oils at 84F & 90F, stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender). After dividing up, coloring, and adding the fragrance blend, I stick blended the yellow again, weighed the container, poured the yellow into the mold that was set at about a 45 degree angle, then weight the soap container again. I add a few more ounces of batter, then let it set.

When the soap in the mold was set, I tipped it back down and added some purple batter, then the yellow heart tube embed and more purple batter. Topped with 1 oz of yellow soap and swirled with a chop stick.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

In hindsight, it would have been better to have a thinner yellow batter, so when I added a little extra it would have spread out more evenly for a straighter line. Also, I should have added less purple soap before setting the yellow heart tube mold inside, as it turned out very close to the top of the bar. And thirdly, instead of putting some yellow soap on top, using yellow or gold mica oil and purple mica oil would make the top really pop.

The switch to Queens Purple mica for coloring really helped this – although the yellow in the fragrance oil still discolored the purple a bit. The #10 Lake Yellow color was also a much nicer yellow (although I used the last of what I had, so will have to come up with another plan next time). The yellow heart tube embed seems to look better than when I had the colors reversed and using a purple heart tube embed.

Sunshine Orange Yuzu Sunflower, Ruby Red Grapefruit Chrysanthemum, and Gardenia Chrysanthemum soaps

Description of Bramble Berry & NDA FO/EO’s:
BB Orange 10X EO: The scent of Sweet Orange is warming, comforting and “fodder for the heart”. It encourages you take things in good humor and absolves emotional confusion. It is stimulating & uplifting and good for colds & other ailments. CP: Discolors orange (after curing turns beige).
BB Yuzu FO: A fresh and sparkling light Japanese citrus. It is also referred to as Japanese Grapefruit; with top notes of mandarin, tangerine, lemon satsuma, and ruby red grapefruit. A very subtle fragrance. CP: Water White. Very Light.
NDA Rube Red Grapefruit FO: This juicy, ruby red grapefruit scent will make your mouth water. Top notes of pink grapefruit, lemons and limes melds into notes of gardenia, lilac, powder and vanilla.CP: no issues.
BB Gardenia FO: Main note of Gardenia, with hints of rose & orchid to accentuate and make it deeper & more complex. CP: Accelerates trace, & gets lumpy. Added: Mix and pour immediately, only use for layered soap.

The Plan

77 oz Batter for multiple projects.
Use 30 oz for Sunshine Orange Yuzu in sunflower molds, with brown eye, yellow petals, rest orange.
Use 15 oz for Ruby Red Grapefruit in Chrysanthemum mold, with Clyde slide swirl & pour.
Use 15 oz for Gardenia in Chrysanthemum molds, with Clyde slide swirl & pour.
Pour off 17 oz for heart tube embeds & Plumeria embeds

Master batch Oils #20: 55 oz Oils (Makes 77 oz /4.8 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.76 oz / 220 grams
Distilled Water: (2.35 oz disc/ 13.5 % disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 16 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Avocado Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

For Sunshine Orange Yuzu Sunflowers: (30 oz Batter/Colors/ 2.5 oz FO/EO) (used 3 oz FO/EO)
EO/FO Blend: 1.5 oz Orange (used 0.5 Orange Peal FO; 0.4 oz 5x Orange eo; 0.6 10x Orange) + 1.5 oz Yuzu FO
.25 oz BB Cappuccino brown mica
14 oz BB Fizzy Lemonade, BB Yellow Mica, CC Banana yellow (may only need 8 oz), 1.5 oz EO/FO
16 oz BB Nuclear orange, 1.5 oz EO/FO
Color soap before adding EO to make sure to get the right color.
Dark Brown for the eye of the flower (use pipet) – put in fridge to set.
Yellow for the petals – put in fridge to set.
Orange for rest of soap.

For Gardenia Chrysanthemums: (15 oz Batter/Colors/ 1 oz FO) (Make First: Accelerates)
7 oz BB Hydrated Green Chrome oxide
8 oz TD White.
Clyde slide pour and swirl.

For Ruby Red Grapefruit Chrysanthemums: (15 oz Batter/Colors/ 1.3 oz FO) (used 0.9 Ruby Red & 0.4 Grapefruit fo)
4 oz BB Red Mica
4 oz MM Pink Lemonade
7 oz TD White
Clyde slide pour and swirl.

The Reality

I soaped the lye & oils at 81F & 95F, stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender). I had wanted to start this as cool as possible (for the Gardenia FO), but got my oils too hot to make that happen (I should have put the container in the fridge for awhile.)

The plan was to make the Gardenia Chrysanthemums first, as my notes say that the fragrance accelerates trace. But I got distracted with making a few embeds that the batter seemed perfect for. And then I colored a little soap brown for the center of the sunflower…and while I was at it, added the yellow and orange for the rest of the sunflower batter, then used some orange for birds in a single mold.

The soap was still fine, just not as thin as if I would have used it immediately. But when I added the Gardenia FO, it got really thick and lumpy. I attempted to use a tiny blender to mix out the lumps, but that seemed to just make it thicker. And I also eye-balled the pour of the fragrance in the white and green, but I should have weighed it out, as the green got much thicker than the white.

I attempted a Clyde Slide pour, but was quickly thwarted and realized I needed to get this soap in the molds immediately, or I would have “soap on a stick.”

It was easy-peasy with the Grapefruit and Sunflower soaps after that!!

The Cut

Sunshine Orange Yuzu Sunflower soap
Ruby Red Grapefruit Chrysanthemum soap
Gardenia Chrysanthemum Soap

Conclusions:

It had been almost 3 years since I made Gardenia soap, and I just made one to test it. Too long ago to take my notes of acceleration and lumpiness extremely serious. I should have had notes of “mix and pour immediately. Use only for layered soap.” Or something with exclamation points on it – to take it more earnestly. (Living Dangerous in soap making!!)

I knew that the batter for the Grapefruit was a little thin, but I didn’t want to wait too long for it to get to the exact consistency, as I needed time to add all the layers on the Sunflower soap. So the Clyde Slide swirl was a little muddied, and the distinct colors of light pink, dark pink, and white did not come through on all the bars. But is still looks and smells lovely.

Choices always have to be made when making several different soaps from the same batter. I think in the end, these all came out looking lovely and smelling awesome!

POGY – Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu soap – with drop and horizontal hanger swirl

POGY: Description of fragrances:
Pineapple Cilantro: A ripe, realistic pineapple scent, with hints of coconut, orange, cilantro, vanilla, musk. CP: Slight peach color.
Orange Essential Oil: The scent of Sweet Orange is warming, comforting and “fodder for the heart”. It encourages you take things in good humor and absolves emotional confusion. It is stimulating & uplifting and good for colds & other ailments. CP: Discolors orange (after curing turns beige).
Pink Grapefruit: This is an exhilarating, wake-me-up citrus, with a juicy grapefruit aroma. Grapefruit is believed by aromatherapists to be a spiritual up-lifter, and to ease muscle fatigue and stiffness. It is also said to be a purifier of congested, oily and acne prone skin. Grapefruit is reputed to ease nervous exhaustion and relieve depression. CP: Water white.
Yuzu: A fresh and sparkling light Japanese citrus. It is also referred to as Japanese Grapefruit; with top notes of mandarin, tangerine, lemon satsuma, and ruby red grapefruit. A very subtle fragrance. CP: No A, R, D Very light. Water white.

The Plan

Make 70 oz soap, pour off 18 oz for embeds
Use 52 oz in 3 lb silicone mold for POGY

Master batch Oils #20: 50 oz Oils (Makes 70 oz /4.4 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 50 oz/ 1417 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.05 oz / 200 grams
Distilled Water: (2.77 oz disc/ 17.6 %): 13 oz / 369 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 14 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 14 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 14 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Avocado Extract (1%): 14 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

POGY Scent Blend: 3.4 oz Total: (Keep Separate – do not blend!!)
1.0 oz Pink Grapefruit (water white)
1.1 oz Yuzu (water white)
0.55 oz Pineapple (slight peach discolor)
0.75 oz NDA 5x Orange (discolor orange)

3 lb mold – 52 oz batter/colors/3 oz EO/FO:
31 oz TD white, 0.8 oz Yuzu, 0.75 oz Grapefruit
7 oz BB Raspberry Red, 0.3 oz Yuzu, 0.25 oz Grapefruit
7 oz BB Nuclear Orange & BB Racing Stripe (turns yellow), 0.75 oz Orange
7 oz BB Fizzy Lemonade Yellow & BB Yellow Mica, 0.55 oz Pineapple
Color soap before adding EO to make sure you get the right color.
Drop & hanger swirl.

The Reality:

I soaped my lye and oils at 91F &101F, stick blending until emulsified (using an immersion blender). The batter was pretty thin, but it had been quite a while since I made soap and I tend to over stick blend, so I was very aware and cautious to avoid doing that, with much success.

While waiting for the main batter to thicken, I tested some fragrances – one riced and accelerated and the other just accelerated, so this worked perfectly, as the batter was too thin to do anything else with it.

When the main soap was thick enough, I colored it and added the fragrance, which reversed trace and gave me just enough time to make some tube embeds.

I poured over half the white into the mold, then dropped swirled some colored batter, added the rest of the white, and finished with more drop swirls. I then did a horizontal hanger swirl and vertical hanger (for just one pass up and down.) Topped with lines of colored soap and figure eights with a thin chop stick, then zig-zagged lengthwise and sprinkled fine iridescent glitter on top.

The Cut:

Conclusions:

This worked exceptionally well – everything was timed perfectly and all the embeds, test soaps, samples and individual soaps came out extremely well.

They look lovely and smell amazing.

Christmas Spice Soap in tiger and vertical hanger swirls

Description of Bramble Berry Christmas Spice Fragrance: Perfect for the spice-lover on your list, with top notes of Orange and Lemons, and a middle full of enticing fragrances such as Cinnamon, Mocha, Thyme and Nutmeg; cooling down to a sweet note of Candied Ginger & Cinnamon Sugar – like a warm, sweet smelling kitchen. CP: Discolors brown 2% Vanilla. Accelerates trace. A very lightly, spicy fragrance. Use 1.33 oz per pound.

The Plan:


3 lb mold, 52 oz batter.
Tiger pour & vertical zig-zag hanger swirl.
Soap Very Cool to help minimize acceleration.
Pour off 25 oz extra batter for Snowflake and sample soaps.

Master batch Oils #20: 55 oz Oils (Makes 77 oz /4.8 lbs soap)
MB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 7.76 oz / 220 grams
Distilled Water: (2.35 oz disc/ 13.5 % disc): 15 oz / 425 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 16 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Aloe Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Avocado Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

52 oz Batter/Color/4 oz FO + 2 oz VS (6 oz blend):
26 oz TD White
6.5 oz BB Bubblegum Pink (should turn red)
6.5 oz BB Red Mica mica
6.5 oz MM Hunter Green mica (dark green)
6.5 oz CC Apple Green (Light green)
Alternate white with each color down middle of loaf for tiger pour.
Zig-zag (skinny) vertical hanger swirl.
Top with lines of colors and swirl with toothpick.
(BB = Bramble Berry, MM = Mica’s & More; CC = Crafter’s Choice WSP; TD = Titanium Dioxide; VS = NG Vanilla Stabilizer)

The Reality:


I soaped the lye and oils at 86F & 90F, stick blending until just emulsified (using an immersion blender). I divided up all the batter and colored it. With the extra soap I made two different Snowflake soaps (four of each of Lingonberry Spice and Gingerbread Cookie), using the Clyde Slide pour – while checking on my main batter frequently.

I was fortunate enough that when I finished the snowflakes, the rest of the soap was almost thick enough to use. I added the fragrance blend and it thickened up slightly, for a perfect pour. I did a tiger swirl, alternating each of the colors with white, pouring down the middle of the loaf mold until complete.

Then I used a skinny hanger and pulled & pushed it through the mold numerous times (7 total?). After adding some lines of colored batter on top, I swirled with a chopstick, then spritzed fine iridescent glitter and Isopropyl Alcohol (several times to prevent ash.)

I put in a dedicated soaping room and covered with a towel for a few hours, then removed it. I wanted to start the gel process, but did not want it to overheat (which happened last time with this fragrance and Vanilla Stabilizer.)

The Cut:

Conclusions:


The acceleration was interesting with this fragrance. I first got a slight acceleration, which worked in my favor as it made the batter the perfect consistency for this pour. Then the soap started ricing a bit, which I hand mixed out before each pour. When I was almost finished with the tiger pour, the batter started to reverse trace and was very, very thin.

But the soaps turned out lovely, as well as all the snowflake soaps (which you can see here).