Description of New Directions Aromatics Maple Sugar FO: Enjoy the aroma of sweet, warm maple sugar and butter. This scent is extremely rich, complex, and long lasting. CP: 11% Vanilla. Discolors dark brown; slight Acceleration.
3 lb silicone mold 52 oz
Use frozen, half strength Buttermilk
3+ oz NDA Maple Sugar FO
Master batch Oils #8: 38 oz Oils + 1.52 oz Coffee Butter (3.8%) (Makes 56 oz soap/3.5 lb)
MB Oils: 38 oz/ 1077 grams
Coffee Butter: 1.52 oz/43 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 5.61 oz / 159 grams
Frozen Buttermilk (half strength): (2.04 oz disc; 15.6% disc): 11 oz / 312 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Green Tea Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Oat Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Batter/Color/ 3.2 oz FO:
1st layer (bottom) with 2 oz FO:
28 oz BB Cappuccino brown mica
2nd layer (middle), no FO, tiger stripe pour:
6 oz BB Nuclear Orange & Sunset Orange (yellow) mica, (splash VS)
6 oz TKB True Red (splash of VS)
3rd layer (top) with 1 oz FO:
16 oz TD White (.5 oz VS)
(BB = Bramble Berry, TKB = TKB Trading; TD = Titanium Dioxide, VS = Vanilla Stabilizer)
Pour tiger stripe in 2nd layer. Hanger swirl all layers with thick hanger, add a little of the colors on top, swirl, then dust with gold sparkle mica. (Extra batter for individual molds).
In the past when I have used full strength Buttermilk it made the soap very grainy looking. (See 2016 OMH Blog here). So this time I made up a half strength version of buttermilk (adding double the amount of water to the powdered buttermilk, then freeze).
I broke up the frozen buttermilk, weighed out 11 oz and added the NaOH. The Lye mixture got to 93F degrees. I mixed 92F lye liquid with 102F oils and stick blended until light trace (should have stopped at emulsified).
After separating out all the batter I added a slight bit of Cappuccino brown mica and 2.2 oz of FO to the first container and it thickened very fast. I poured the first layer (using about 24 oz) and it hardened immediately.
For the second layer, I poured a tiger swirl with the orange & red, but even though there was no FO in them, they got a bit thick too. I used about 5 oz of each.
I then added the last layer and attempted to do a hanger swirl, however when I pushed through to the bottom layer, I could feel that it was too thick to swirl, so I focused on swirling the top 2 layers.
I attempted to add some brown on the top to swirl with the other colors, but it was quite lumpy. I spritzed some dry gold mica on top and it helped the look of the soap a little, as you can see here:
I put the soap in the freezer for 6 hours, then transferred it to the fridge until the next morning. The leftover soap batter was put into 2 leaf molds.
All of the off white color on these soaps are turning beige:
I like the look of flames from the red and orange:
The white areas are turning more beige (since these photos) and there are now dark brown areas in the leaf soap (in the bottom left area):
This was the first time using this fragrance oil (I had made a sample, but it did not turn this dark). Next time I will not need any brown mica – with such a high FO content in the first layer, the soap is almost black. Also, I think the natural color of the soap batter with more vanilla stabilizer will work better than white, which starts out quite stark and is discoloring to a beige. I think a bigger layer of orange & red (maybe even with a third color of yellow) would look nicer too.
I was surprised at how quickly and thick the acceleration was. Again, part of that was due to the high concentration of FO, but I need to be aware of that for next time.
The Fragrance oil smells wonderful – I would recommend it and use it again.
After 2 months of curing all of the white areas have turned to a medium brown. Even the top and red & orange areas are turning brown. Soon this whole soap will be all brown! Next time I need to use much, much more vanilla stabilizer!