I have been looking for an Ebony Oud or Oud Pachouli scent for soap that is similar to the Party Lite candles I have by the same names. Although this fragrance is not identical, it is the only one I have found.
A Yellow Cottage Soapery YouTube video prompted me to try the technique of adding embeds onto the face of the soap – thank you for the inspiration Stacey!
Description of Crafters Choice Wholesale Supplies Plus Oud & Incense FO: Deep notes of black pepper, oud and incense are brightened with lavender and berries. CP: No A, D, R. .2% Vanilla. Review: spicy, warm smell. (This ACCELERATED LIKE CRAZY!!)
Use 2 lb mold & 7 CP Owl embeds (1.45 oz)
Drop Pour Swirl
Use leftover batter for guest/sample soaps.
Master batch Oils #9: 28 oz Oils (Makes 40 oz soap)
MB Oils: 28 oz/ 794 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 3.99 oz / 113 grams
Distilled Water: (1.24 oz/ 13.3%): 8 oz / 227 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 8 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 8 grams (in oils)
Dulse Extract (1%): 8 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Buckthorn Extract (1%): 8 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
36 oz Batter/Colors/FO:
8 oz BB Fizzy Lemonade
8 oz BB Nuclear Orange
8 oz BB Red Mica (+TKB True Red)
8 oz BB Zippy Blue Mica(+Ultramarine Blue)
8 oz BB Queens Purple Mica (+Ultramarine Violet)
Pour sequence: Purple, orange, blue, yellow, red.
Build up top with thick soap and swirl with back of spoon.
CPOP for 4 hours?
Un-mold, cut, and “glue” owl embeds on face of bar with melted cocoa butter. (Or clear melted MP)
I choose several of the colors above because I already had them mixed up for a previous batch. Instead of adding to them when I needed more, I used a little of some other leftover colors (in parenthesize above). (I premix all my micas & colorants in heated oils. I find heating this mixture up helps them incorporate into the batter better.)
Soaped at 104F Lye & 120F oils – I was a little high on the temperature of my oils, as I got distracted while waiting for the lye liquid to cool, but I used to soap at 120-130F (always within 10 degrees with the lye & oils), and I figured this wasn’t too far off.
I stick blended (using immersion blender) and got to very light trace really quickly – I like to stop at emulsified. But since I was doing a drop swirl/pour I figured I needed it a little thicker anyway, so I was not worried.
This was a strange soaping session – when I divided my batter into 5 containers, I only had about 37 ounces of soap. I ran through my procedure of weighing everything out in my head, and I did not make any mistakes. I was especially worried about not weighing out enough oils, but I remember checking it in both ounces and grams.
I mixed up my colors, then divided the FO with a tiny bit less in the yellow & orange, in case of any discoloration with the .2% Vanilla. Everything was still very thin – too thin to pour – until it wasn’t. All of a sudden the soap accelerated at lightning speed and I had to glop the batter into the mold until I couldn’t even plop it any more. I tried texturing the top, but it was all too hard, so I sprinkled with some glitter and put it in the oven. I was so disgusted with it all, I didn’t even take a photo of the top.
Normally I would have warmed the oven back up to 150F after preheating it and opening the door to insert the mold, but the soap was so hot, I was afraid it might crack. (So not only did it accelerate like crazy, but it also got really hot.) I considered putting it in the fridge, but did not.
Since this soap was both very stiff and CPOP’ed, it easily came out of the mold within 24 hours. I immediately steamed & trimmed it so that I could affix the little owl embeds. I used cocoa butter to glue them on, but in hind-sight, I think using MP would be better, as that is soap on soap. While the cocoa butter may add an additional luxuriance to the soap, it already has 3 butters in it and it may take away some of the lather – or with the tiny bit used, it may have no effect at all. But the cocoa butter dried opaque and the edges around the owls needed to be cleaned off, while clear MP would remain translucent, with one less step to contend with.
I expected this soap to have lots of air pockets and blobs of color. Thank goodness I got neither. I was extremely happy with how they turned out – the design looks nice, there are no air pockets, and I think the owls make it adorable:
This was a new fragrance for me. I typically test new scents by making a sample/guest size soap. But since I only had 2 oz of this FO I took a chance without sampling it. The manufacturers notes said no A, D, or R, and there were no CP reviews. (There’s one from me now!)
I will admit to my part in the issues I had – soaping the oils a little high, at 120F. (Even at my usual 100-105F I would have had acceleration if it was going to happen – I just may have had a bit more time to work with it.)
I was very frustrated and disheartened after making this soap. But then I realized that it has been a really long time since I’ve felt like this while soaping – so I guess the soap gods caught up to me! Which made me feel especially grateful that all my holiday soaps worked out so stunningly (I was extremely pleased with my fall and Christmas soaps this season).
The FO was extremely strong when soaping with it, but it mellowed out quickly and within a week smelled so wonderful I would definitely buy it again. (I have several Ebony Oud and Oud & Patchouli candles that I cherish and have looked for a similar fragrance. This is not the same, but the closest I have found.)