Gingerbread Man Goat’s Milk Soap with Cp embeds on top, in drop & hanger swirls

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Description of Bramble Berry Gingersnap FO: This is the quintessential holiday fragrance, smells just like baked Gingersnap. It has some additional spice notes to give it that extra spark: Caraway Seed, Cinnamon, Cardamom – with Vanilla to warm up and compliment the spices. CP: 4.1% Vanilla, discolors to med to dark brown, some acceleration (got no acceleration).

 

The Plan:
3 lb mold, 48 oz + 5.6 oz embeds on top (2 per bar: 1 red with silver mica dust, 1 white with gold mica dust = 18 total)
Drop swirl & Hanger swirl
Silver & Brown mica oil swirls on top

Master batch #8 oils: 38 oz Oils (Makes 54 oz soap)
MB Oils: 38 oz/ 1077 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 5.41 oz / 153 grams
Frozen Goats Milk & Distilled Water: (1.54 oz disc; 12.3% disc): 11 oz / 312 grams (8 oz GM, 3 oz water)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (in lye liquid)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Aloe Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Green Tea Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Color/ 3 oz FO:
24 oz BB Cappuccino Mica, 2 oz FO
6 oz TKB #30 True Red, .4 oz FO with .4 oz NG Vanilla Stabilizer
6 oz BB Fizzy Lemonade Yellow, .2 oz FO with .2 oz VS
6 oz BB Tangerine Wow .4 oz FO with .4 oz VS
6 oz TD White No FO with .2 oz VS
(BB = Bramble Berry, TKB = TKB Trading; TD = Titanium Dioxide, NG = Natures Garden; VS = vanilla stabilizer)

 

The Reality:
A week earlier, I made red and white embeds with CP soap, dusting the red ones with silver mica and the white ones with gold mica.

I had mixed up a 2/3 batch of powdered Goat’s Milk in Distilled water, then froze it. But I wanted a 1:1 batch of Goat’s Milk to water, so I used the 2/3 batch I froze and added 3 oz of frozen distilled water, which roughly gave me half of the full strength Goat’s Milk and half water. (I am finding out that this seems to be the best working combination, so next time I mix up a batch of Goat’s Milk I need to dilute it even more to this strength.)

I added 83F lye liquid to 98F oils, stick blending until emulsified, and let it thicken to light trace before soaping. This seems to work best for me, because if I mix to light trace, it keeps thickening on it’s own (due to the immersion blender disturbing the molecules). It had been a year since I used this FO and was unsure if I would get any acceleration (I got just a tiny bit).

Poured all the light brown batter, then drop swirled all the other colors in this order: red, white, orange, & yellow. Then hanger swirled circular and vertically, added two lines of each color on top, plus some mica oil lines and swirled:

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I had to wait a bit before it was thick enough to hold the embeds, then submerged two embeds into each bar, dusting with fine iridescent glitter:

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Photo taken before dusting with fine iridescent glitter

 

The Cut:
All the light brown areas will turn a dark brown:

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After Curing:

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Conclusions:
I like these little gingerbread men and think they are a fun top to add, although half of the body is submerged into the soap. I am also pleased that there are so many colors and that the brown does not dominate the soaps, but I could use a little more white next time or maybe make a brown gingerbread man instead of white.

 

 

 

Mint Chocolate Chip Milk & Cream Soap with cp chocolate chip embeds on top

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Description of Bramble Berry Scents:
Mint Chocolate Chip FO:
Just like a bowl of Chocolate Chip Mint Ice cream; with a scent of Pure Cane Sugar, Whipped Cream, Chocolate Truffle, Crème de Menthe, Peppermint Candy and Vanilla Brulee. It’s all rounded out with Tonka Bean, Musk and a hint of Butterscotch. CP: great, discolors dark brown/ black (8% Vanilla). Strong. Some acceleration/ thickening after a while.
Peppermint 2nd Distill EO: Smells like a more traditional mint smell – candy cane scent. CP: Water White.

 

The Plan:
9-bar mold, 50.3 oz soap + 1.7 oz chocolate chip embeds
2.5 oz Mint Chocolate Chip FO & .5 oz 2nd Distill Peppermint EO
3 layers with white gold mica line in between layers
Pour off extra batter for making embeds

Master batch Oils #8: 44 oz Oils (Makes 62 oz soap)
MB Oils: 44 oz/ 1247 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.27 oz / 178 grams
Frozen Milk & Cream: (2.52 oz disc; 17.35% disc): 12 oz / 340 grams (3 oz frozen distilled water & 9 oz frozen Half & Half)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 12 grams (in lye liquid)
Buckthorn Extract (1%): 12 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Oat Extract (1%): 12 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Color/FO:
20 oz Bottom: BB Cappuccino Mica with 1.8 oz MCC FO
BB White Gold Mica Line
18 oz Middle: MM Mint Green, .7 oz MCC FO & .1 oz P EO with .7 oz VS
BB White Gold Mica Line
14 oz Top: TD White .4 oz P EO with splash VS & green & brown chocolate chips
(BB = Bramble Berry; MM= Mica’s & More; MMC= mint chocolate chip fo, P=peppermint 2nd distill eo, VS=Natures Garden vanilla stabilizer).

 

The Reality:
I had a lot of embeds to make for upcoming projects, so I got a variety of colors and molds ready for that first. (Note to self: plan all holiday soaps in mid-summer and make cp embeds then, as I’ve been “making them on the fly,” which feels a bit rushed and disorganized.)

I used 3 oz of frozen distilled water and added that to 9 oz of frozen Half & Half (milk & cream). After adding the NaOH to it, the highest temp it got was 93F. After adding the Sodium Lactate, I combined 90F lye liquid to 95F oils. All the milk fat in the lye liquid started the process of saponification, so it was difficult to get it through a strainer (adding some of the soaping oils to it helped). This has further convinced me to use milks and water at a 1:1 ratio for a smoother batter.

I stick blended to emulsified (using an immersion blender), and separated out my batter, getting to work on my delicate embeds – with such thin batter, this worked out well.

I then proceeded on to my main batter, which was at a thin trace, and mixed up only the first layer – incorporating a little bit of brown mica for color (until the FO discolors it), then used a fine tea strainer to dust on a layer of white gold mica. It was too thin to add another layer, so I put it in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.

That worked great, and was ready for the mint green color, which I had mixed up with the FO & Vanilla Stabilizer. Just on a whim, I added a tiny bit (.1 oz) of Peppermint 2nd distill essential oil, as it seemed like I couldn’t detect any mint from the Mint Chocolate Chip FO. Repeated what I did in the first layer – dusting white gold mica on top and putting in the fridge for 10 minutes.

For the last layer I mixed in an additional .4 oz Peppermint 2nd distill essential oil, which seemed overwhelmingly strong and I questioned if this “spur of the moment” decision was the right one.

I tried adding some texture on top, with not much success, so I put in the dividers and continued on, randomly plopping 7 chocolate chip embeds on top of each bar. (My mold made 64 chips and I speculated on making more embeds first, but was in a bit of a hurry trying to get all my fall & holiday soaps made on my vacation.)

I had absolutely no hint of acceleration with this FO. I put in the refrigerator for 24 hours before un-molding.

 

The Un-molding/Cut:

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IMG_2092I dusted the tops with silver mica using a powder spray bottle (purchased at Qosmedix here). I like this applicator in that I can easily direct the spray, getting it where I want it to go, without excess mess everywhere.

 

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It’s difficult to see the white textured tops in the photos, but the shine from the silver mica dusting helps accentuate it:

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Besides trimming the corners of each bar, I also had to plane the sides where the dividers pulled down the soap and distorted the layered look and mica lines:

 

Conclusions:
I am so frustrated with my middle layer of mint green. I used that exact color for making the mint chocolate chip embeds and they came out a true mint green. However, the green in this soap turned out very, very yellow. As it’s been curing, it has morphed into more of a green, but still has a lot of yellow in it and does not match the embeds. (I can only speculate that the yellowing is from the cream). It doesn’t look minty to me, which I find very disappointing.

At first, I thought I over did the peppermint essential oil, as it smelled more minty than chocolate – however it has calmed down a bit and the depth and warmth of the chocolate is now coming through.

Almond Confetti Goat’s Milk soap with avocado, cocoa, & shea butters, plus extracts

I made this soap before (See Blog here), but it got quite dark – almost a light brown, from the discoloration of the fragrance oil. I wanted to add some vanilla stabilizer to this batch to keep it a lighter color so that the colors in the confetti would pop.

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Description of Bramble Berry Almond Cybilla FO: A very real smelling almond – smooth and crisp, sweet & true almond scent. CP: Behaves well, discolors chocolate brown, 4% Vanilla.

 

The Plan:
3 lb mold, 52 oz.
1.5 oz Almond Cybilla FO
2 layers – 52 oz total: 42 oz soap batter + 10 oz confetti
5 oz confetti each layer with 21 oz soap = 26 oz per layer
Pour off extra batter for embeds
Texture top? (didn’t work, used white gold mica dusting instead)

Master batch Oils #8: 46 oz Oils (Makes 64 oz soap)
MB Oils: 46 oz/ 1304 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.55 oz / 186 grams
Frozen Goat’s Milk: (3.18 oz disc; 21% disc): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 13 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 13 grams (in oils)
Buckthorn Extract (1%): 13 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Oat Extract (1%): 13 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Color/1.5 oz FO:
TD White with 1 oz of BB Vanilla Stabilizer
2 layers, 26 oz each: 21 oz soap + 5 oz soap scraps
1st layer: brown, black, red, blue soap shavings
2nd layer: pink, purple, light green, & yellow soap scraps

 

The Reality:
I used 8.65 oz of Frozen Goat’s Milk with the rest Frozen Distilled water. From the last soap I made, I discovered that 1:1 of milk & water seems to make a smoother bar of soap. I used slightly more Goat’s Milk in this batch just to finish it off.

I soaped at 93F degree lye and 107F oils; stick blended to emulsified (using an immersion blender) and measured out my batter. This worked great, as I had a lot of tiny embeds to make and was able to accomplish that with a very thin batter, while my main batch sat and thickened a bit.

I then switched to making the Confetti soap, which was very straight forward: adding TD to each container, then half of the FO in each with some Vanilla Stabilizer. (I used the Bramble Berry version, as it seems much milder than the Natures Garden one – however the BB VS will only stave off the discolor for 6-9 months.)

I waited a while for the top to set up to texture it, but with all the confetti the texturing did not work well, so I switched to dusting it with a new BB white-gold mica.

I put the soap in the freezer for 6 hours to prevent overheating and gelling, then transferred it to the fridge until the next morning.

 

The Cut:

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The beauty of the white gold mica dusting on top of the soaps is difficult to capture in photos

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Conclusions:
I’m not sure why I didn’t use Natures Garden Vanilla Stabilizer for CP. I think that would work much better next time, as the soap is already turning to a light beige color. I could easily go with only 1 oz of FO too – as this scent is strong, and even less soap shavings.

 

Maple Sugar Buttermilk soap in layers and hanger swirl, with 4 butters: avocado, cocoa, coffee, and shea, plus extracts

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Description of New Directions Aromatics Maple Sugar FO: Enjoy the aroma of sweet, warm maple sugar and butter. This scent is extremely rich, complex, and long lasting. CP: 11% Vanilla. Discolors dark brown; slight Acceleration.

 

The Plan:
3 lb silicone mold 52 oz
Use frozen, half strength Buttermilk
3+ oz NDA Maple Sugar FO

Master batch Oils #8: 38 oz Oils + 1.52 oz Coffee Butter (3.8%) (Makes 56 oz soap/3.5 lb)
MB Oils: 38 oz/ 1077 grams
Coffee Butter: 1.52 oz/43 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 5.61 oz / 159 grams
Frozen Buttermilk (half strength): (2.04 oz disc; 15.6% disc): 11 oz / 312 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Green Tea Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Oat Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Color/ 3.2 oz FO:
1st layer (bottom) with 2 oz FO:
28 oz BB Cappuccino brown mica
2nd layer (middle), no FO, tiger stripe pour:
6 oz BB Nuclear Orange & Sunset Orange (yellow) mica, (splash VS)
6 oz TKB True Red (splash of VS)
3rd layer (top) with 1 oz FO:
16 oz TD White (.5 oz VS)
(BB = Bramble Berry, TKB = TKB Trading; TD = Titanium Dioxide, VS = Vanilla Stabilizer)

Pour tiger stripe in 2nd layer. Hanger swirl all layers with thick hanger, add a little of the colors on top, swirl, then dust with gold sparkle mica. (Extra batter for individual molds).

 

The Reality:
In the past when I have used full strength Buttermilk it made the soap very grainy looking. (See 2016 OMH Blog here). So this time I made up a half strength version of buttermilk (adding double the amount of water to the powdered buttermilk, then freeze).

I broke up the frozen buttermilk, weighed out 11 oz and added the NaOH. The Lye mixture got to 93F degrees. I mixed 92F lye liquid with 102F oils and stick blended until light trace (should have stopped at emulsified).

After separating out all the batter I added a slight bit of Cappuccino brown mica and 2.2 oz of FO to the first container and it thickened very fast. I poured the first layer (using about 24 oz) and it hardened immediately.

For the second layer, I poured a tiger swirl with the orange & red, but even though there was no FO in them, they got a bit thick too. I used about 5 oz of each.

I then added the last layer and attempted to do a hanger swirl, however when I pushed through to the bottom layer, I could feel that it was too thick to swirl, so I focused on swirling the top 2 layers.

I attempted to add some brown on the top to swirl with the other colors, but it was quite lumpy. I spritzed some dry gold mica on top and it helped the look of the soap a little, as you can see here:

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Close up – you can see some of the lumpiness from the gold batter (which will turn dark brown)

I put the soap in the freezer for 6 hours, then transferred it to the fridge until the next morning. The leftover soap batter was put into 2 leaf molds.

 

The Cut:
All of the off white color on these soaps are turning beige:

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I like the look of flames from the red and orange:

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The white areas are turning more beige (since these photos) and there are now dark brown areas in the leaf soap (in the bottom left area):

 

 

Conclusions:
This was the first time using this fragrance oil (I had made a sample, but it did not turn this dark). Next time I will not need any brown mica – with such a high FO content in the first layer, the soap is almost black. Also, I think the natural color of the soap batter with more vanilla stabilizer will work better than white, which starts out quite stark and is discoloring to a beige. I think a bigger layer of orange & red (maybe even with a third color of yellow) would look nicer too.

I was surprised at how quickly and thick the acceleration was. Again, part of that was due to the high concentration of FO, but I need to be aware of that for next time.

The Fragrance oil smells wonderful – I would recommend it and use it again.

Apple Cinnamon Sugar Soap with Tiger Stripe & Hanger Swirl

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Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances used:
Red Apple: This scent is actually a blend of a few varieties of Red Apple scents, along with some notes of Green Apple to temper the sweetness. The Green Apple notes add some wonderful depth and tartness to the scent. CP: Accelerates trace and discolors yellow.
Cinnamon Sugar: More of a cinnamon sticky bun sweet than spicy cinnamon. The warm ginger, cinnamon and cardamom notes provide a wonderful base for many fragrances making this an easy blending fragrance. CP: Discolors Dark Brown, 14% Vanilla; behaves well.

 

The Plan:
3 lb mold with 52 oz soap
2.5 oz Red Apple FO, .5 oz Cinnamon Sugar FO (on bottom)
Soap cool. Pour off 8-10 oz for samples

Master batch #8 oils: 44 oz Oils (Makes 62 oz soap)
MB Oils: 44 oz/ 1247 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.27 oz / 178 grams
Distilled Water: (2.52 oz disc; 17.35% disc): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 12 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 12 grams (in oils)
Calendula Extract (1%): 12 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Carrot Extract (1%): 12 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Color/FO (2.5 oz Apple & .5 oz Cinnamon Sugar FO):
12 oz on bottom with .5 oz cinnamon sugar FO (natural – will discolor dark brown)
Gold Mica line (use tea strainer)
7 oz BB Chrome Green oxide
7 oz CC Apple Green mica
14 oz TD White
7 oz TKB #30 True Red
7 oz BB Raspberry mica
(BB = Bramble Berry, TKB = TKB Trading, CC = Crafters Choice from Wholesale Supplies; TD = Titanium Dioxide)

Pour tiger stripes into middle of mold: red, raspberry, white, dark green, light green, white & repeat
Then up & down hanger swirl in striped section only.

 

The Reality:
Soaped my lye & oils both at 100F degrees – I had planned to use low temps to help with the Red Apple FO acceleration. I stick blended to emulsified (using an immersion blender), divided and weighed out all my batter, with about 9.5 oz leftover for test samples.

I added the Cinnamon Sugar FO to the 12 oz batter, stick blended for quite a while, then poured into mold. Using a tea strainer to dust on the gold mica line, I got a nice, thick covering.

I mixed the rest of the colors, then added the Red Apple FO. It turned the white very yellow, so I added more & more TD but it was still a pale yellow, which I decided to go with (fortunately it lighted up a bit later). The batter was slow to accelerate, but eventually did, so I worked quickly pouring my tiger stripes. (It accelerated to a point and then stopped.)

I took my thin hanger tool and slowly did a zig-zag up & down motion. I forgot to measure how deeply to go with the hanger without disturbing the bottom layer, so I erred on the shallow side.

I had set up & planned to swirl green, red and gold or brown mica oils on top, but realized how beautiful the top was on it’s own, and instead did some fine swirls with a toothpick:

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Close Up:

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The First Cut:
The colors inside are lovely and the gold mica line shows up beautifully. Looking at the bottom edges, you can see how much this layer will discolor dark brown (and did within 6 hours of cutting). Interestingly, the Cinnamon Sugar FO first discolored to an ugly greenish brown for a couple days, before mellowing into a lovely dark chocolate brown.

I grossly underestimated the distance to swirl my hanger and there is only a very small zig-zag line line in the middle, which is not what I was going for:

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The Cut:

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Conclusions:
I was in such a hurry to pour the striped colors, in case the batter continued to accelerate (which it did not), that I also rushed through the hanger swirl. I should have calculated the distance of movement with it, putting a mark on the edges where I wanted the lowest point to go, to get a full swirl throughout (even just payed more attention to how far I was moving the hanger tool!)

With such a little squiggly swirl in the middle, the more detailed advance tiger stripe (poured from the side instead of the middle) may have improve this look.

I think the top turned out lovely, but there is no brown to tie it in. Maybe adding a Cappuccino mica oil line or two before swirling would have done this.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soap Master Batch Oils #8 & #9

I have found what works the best in a soap recipe is to have 50-60% “hard” oils. Coconut & Palm (or Tallow/Lard) are in that category, as well as all butters (even though some are harder than others). I like using 25% Coconut oil and 25% Palm (a mix of Palm Kernel Flakes & Palm oil).

I typically use 10% butters: 5% Cocoa Butter & 5% Shea Butter, but have some wonderful Avocado butter I wanted to include, so have used 4% of each, increasing my butter total to 12%. And I always include 5% Castor oil for lather (above 5% causes acceleration).

The other percentages can be made up of any oils of your choosing – many people love using Olive Oil. I don’t like going above 10% Olive oil, as it makes it harder to get true colors in the soap. Plus Olive oil makes an extremely soft bar of soap and many people find the lather lacking and the bar sticky (100% Olive oil or Castile soap takes 6 months to 1 year to cure).

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There are so many oils that have wonderful skin loving properties, that I like to use a little of both. I have been taken to task for such diversity, and of course the less variety of oils you use, the less you have to buy and keep track of!

Here’s my Master Batch Oils #8:

Recipe: 600 oz oils/37.5 lb (makes 880 oz/ 55 lbs of soap):
5%     Apricot Kernel Oil            30 oz       850 grams
4%     Avocado Butter                 24 oz       680 grams
5%     Avocado Oil                       30 oz       850 grams
5%     Castor Oil                           30 oz       850 grams
4%     Cocoa Butter (Golden)     24 oz       680 grams
25%   Coconut Oil                      150 oz    4252 grams
5%     Hazelnut Oil                       30 oz      850 grams
8%     Olive Oil                              48 oz    1361 grams
8%     Palm Kernel Flakes           48 oz    1361 grams
17%   Palm Oil                            102 oz    2892 grams
5%     Rice Bran Oil                      30 oz      850 grams
4%     Shea Butter (Organic)       24 oz     680 grams
5%     Sunflower Seed Oil            30 oz     850 grams
TOTAL:
100% Oils                                     600 oz 17,006 grams

After measuring and heating the oils and butters, they go into a bucket and I stir thoroughly to blend together:

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I then separate into 1 gallon jugs, cool, and freeze to stop the aging of the oils or refrigerate to slow it down:

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I ran this batch over a dozen times through a lye calculator, adjusting the oil totals for a variety of sized soap batches. (Using the Bramble Berry calculator, I select the adjust batch button to change the oil totals.) Here are some examples, with just the information I need to make a batch of soap:

Master Batch #8 oils: 70 oz Oils (Makes 100 oz/6.25 lb soap)
MB Oils: 70 oz/ 1984 grams
NaOH/Lye 5% SF: 9.97 oz / 283 grams
Distilled Water: (3.1 oz disc; 13.5% disc): 20 oz / 567 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 20 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 20 grams (in oils)
Extract (1%): 20 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
(2% 40 grams; 3% 60 grams)

Master batch #8 oils: 28 oz Oils (Makes 40 oz soap)
MB Oils: 28 oz/ 794 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 3.99 oz / 113 grams
Distilled Water: (1.24 oz disc; 13.3% disc): 8 oz / 227 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 8 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 8 grams (in oils)
Extract (1%): 8 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
(2% 16 grams; 3% 24 grams)

I even adjust the super fat in the Lye Calculator for specialty soap like facial soap:

Master batch #8 oils: 44 oz Oils (Makes 62 oz soap) 8% SF
MB Oils: 44 oz/ 1247 grams
NaOH/ Lye 8% SF: 6.07 oz / 172 grams
Distilled Water: (2.52 oz disc; 17.35% disc): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 12 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 12 grams (in oils)
Extract (1%): 12 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
(2% 24 grams; 3% 36 grams)

 

For Additional Resources – click on the links below:

Soap Recipes:
Master Batch #7 oils
Master Batch #6 oils
Master Batch #5 oils
Master Batch #4 oils (with information on skin loving properties of oils)
Master Batch #3 oils

Shampoo Recipes:
Shampoo Master Batch Oils #2 – new and improved!
Shampoo Master Batch Oils #1

Salt Bar Recipes:
Salt Master Batch Oils #2 (“Everything But the Kitchen Sink”)
Salt Master Batch Oils #1

Update:
Soap Master Batch #9 oils: I liked the soap MB #8 recipe so much and had a supply of all the wonderful oils & butters, that I made the same batch again when I ran out of MB #8.

 

 

 

 

Cocoa Butter Cashmere soap in Advanced Tiger strip with Hanger Swirl

I got this scent last year from Bramble Berry,  in a 4-pack sampler of 2 oz each, and never got around to using it. Since it discolors brown, I thought it would be a good fall fragrance.

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Description of Cocoa Butter Cashmere FO: A cozy fragrance perfectly balanced between sweet, woodsy and warm. Opening notes of light spices and cedarwood are followed by rich vanilla tonka, warm coconut and jasmine petals. Olive wood, sandalwood, amber, musk and a touch of cocoa butter round out this sophisticated scent. CP: Mild Acceleration, Discolors dark brown.

 

The Plan:
Use the last 27.2 oz of MB Oils #7 with the addition of .8 oz Cocoa Butter (run though lye calculator).
2 lb mold, 2 oz FO, with NG Vanilla Stabilizer
1:1 Frozen Coconut Milk & Distilled water
34 oz of soap batter (rest for embeds & test sample)
Advanced Tiger Stripe with hanger swirl.

Master batch #7 oils: 28 oz Oils (Makes 40 oz soap)
MB #7 Oils: 28 oz/ 794 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 3.99 oz / 113 grams
1:1 Frozen Coconut Milk & Distilled water: (1.24 oz disc; 13.3% disc): 8 oz / 227 grams
Kaolin Clay (1%): 8 grams (in oils)
Chamomile Extract (1%): 8 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Aloe Extract (1%): 8 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Sodium Lactate (1%): 8 grams (in Lye water at 130 degrees)

Batter/Color/2 oz FO:
8 oz BB Cappuccino brown, 1 oz FO
8 oz BB Gold Mica, .5 oz FO .3 oz NG VS (vanilla stabilizer)
8 oz TKB True Red, .5 oz FO .3 oz NG VS
8 oz TD White, No FO, .5 oz NG VS
(BB = Bramble Berry, TKB = TKB Trading, NG = Natures Garden; TD = Titanium Dioxide, VS = Vanilla Stabilizer)

 

The Reality:
The lye water did not get hotter than 83F degrees, which was quite low (due to the water, that freezes to a lower temperature than milk). I soaped the lye & oils at 82F and 100F, stick blended (with immersion blender) to emulsified, separated out the batter, made some embeds & a test fragrance blend, then worked on my main soap, which was still at light trace.

I got acceleration from both the vanilla stabilizer and the FO – more from VS than the FO. (The acceleration from the VS may be due to heating it, as I was trying to incorporate some of it that had crystalized, but it didn’t work.) The brown, which had the most FO in it did not accelerate as much as the others – the white accelerated the most, with VS and TD. (Next time I will need to start right away when batter is just at emulsified, as it was quite thick, but still pourable.)

I finished with toothpick swirls on top and a little silver mica oil swirls. Because of the Coconut milk, I put it in the refrigerator.

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Swirled top with added silver mica oil

 

The Cut:

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Conclusions:
I’m not very excited about the color scheme in this one and the advanced tiger swirl (poured on the side of mold) with a hanger swirl creates a very different look to the pour down the middle of the mold with a swirl.

I have read several positive reviews on this fragrance, but I personally don’t care for it that much. (As it develops in the cure and if I find it more appealing, I will update this note.)