Oatmeal Stout Beer Soap with moon embed, hanger swirl, and Colloidal Oatmeal

This Beer Soap is made with homemade Chocolate Oatmeal Stout Beer. If you ever wanted to try some of Steve’s home made beer, here’s one way to sample it:

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Description of Bramble Berry Oatmeal Stout Fragrance: This is a full bodied and smooth beer fragrance blended with Creamy Oatmeal, Orange Peel, Butterscotch, Farm-fresh Milk, Nutty Almond and Rich Vanilla. CP: accelerates trace & discolors to dark brown; 7.7% Vanilla.

Why Colloidal Oatmeal? Why Beer?
Colloidal Oatmeal is a micro-fine, ground oatmeal and is one of the most gentle exfoliants you can use. It’s a great additive for those with extra dry skin and is used to alleviate itchiness. It’s also known for it’s soothing properties and has all the benefits of oatmeal without the scratchiness. It also makes skin feel smooth & refreshing.
Beer is great for your skin. It is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and amino acids. I used a home made Chocolate Oatmeal Stout beer, with alcohol cooked out and frozen.

 

The Plan:
Use 3 lb silicone mold, 52 oz: 49 oz batter + 3 oz embed
Use white moon tube embed with gold mica painted and dusted on.
Leftovers for personal bars.

Master batch Oils #11: 40 oz Oils (Makes 56 oz soap)
MB Oils: 40 oz/ 1134 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 5.71 oz / 162 grams
Frozen Oatmeal Stout Beer: (2.2 oz disc/ 16.6%): 11 oz / 312 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Colloidal Oatmeal (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Carrot Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Dulse Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

52 oz Batter/Color/3 oz FO:
22 oz Natural (will discolor dark brown), 2 oz FO
18 oz Natural (will discolor dark brown), 1 oz FO
5.5 oz light brown (TD White), no FO, use about 3 oz
5.5 oz Orange-brown (TD & Neon Orange), no FO, use about 3 oz
5.5 oz medium brown, (some TD) no FO, use about 3 oz
3 oz moon embed, painted & dusted with gold mica
Pour 22 oz batter.
Drop swirl & hanger swirl unscented batter.
Add moon embed, pour rest of scented batter.
Top with gold, silver, bronze mica oils.

 

The Reality:
I cooked out the alcohol and froze the beer a week before. (Moon tube embed was pre-made with CP soap.) I used 100% concentrated frozen beer (after defrosting for 10 minutes), and combined both the lye liquid & oils at 90F, stick blending briefly (using an immersion blender). With beer – especially concentrated beer – it emulsifies quickly and can accelerate, so I had to work fast.

The beer was so dark, even with the lighter oils mixed in it looked like liquid chocolate. I had originally planned to leave it all like that, but then thought a few swirls inside might be nice.

I colored the soaps to swirl, and added about 2 oz of FO to 22 oz of batter, stirred thoroughly & swiftly, then poured into mold. I immediately adding some of the colored batters & did a hanger swirl. (The fragrance also accelerates, hence the reason for splitting up the batter.)

I placed the CP moon embed (which was painted & dusted with gold mica) to one side in the mold. The rest of the FO was added to 18 oz of batter, briskly stirred & poured over the moon. I then drizzled gold, silver, & bronze mica oils on top & swirled, putting the loaf into the refrigerator to prevent overheating of the beer.

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Of course, I over did the mica oils on top, but I’m surprised at how red the copper was.

I wanted some batter to make a couple soaps for my Sweetie Pie, and I had the perfect amount left over.

 

The Cut:
When un-molding the next day (about 28 hours after making it), the dark chocolate brown had turned to a milk-chocolate color.

As difficult as it was, I waited several days to cut this soap because my moon embed was fully cured and I didn’t want it to tear the soap around it. The cut was successful and just one day latter, the fragrance discolored every bar a dark brown:

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Conclusions:
Although the gold around the moon doesn’t show up in these photos, you can see a faint hint of it in the soap – obviously next time I need to put on a thicker coating to make it more prominent.

As the soap has cured, the stark bright white of the moon has gotten creamier in color, due to the vanillin in the fragrance seeping in from the soap around it. (To avoid this in the future, I would need to use a little Vanilla Stabilizer in the moon embed.) Although the moon doesn’t pop as much, the cream color goes well with the rest of the design. Also, the lighter colored swirls are muting a bit – adding Vanilla Stabilizer into these would keep them brighter.

I have made Oatmeal Stout Beer soap before – you can see some pictures here. You can also see some really “rustic” Pumpkin Lager beer soap here (which gives you an idea of how fast beer can accelerate in soap.)

 

 

Oatmeal Milk & Honey Buttermilk, with Colloidal Oatmeal & Honey in hanger swirl and honeycomb top

I wanted to try something a little different with this OMH soap and Wow did it really turn out lovely:

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OMH – The slightly darker tan on the bottom half of bars has darkened to a very light brown now.

Description of Bramble Berry Fragrances:
Oatmeal Milk & Honey Cybilla (OMH-C): Warm oatmeal, with creamy milk & honey. CP: discolors to dark beige/tan; 1 % Vanilla.
Oatmeal Milk & Honey (OMH): Sweet & toasty. Reviews: milky oatmeal with hints of almond & honey; slight buttercream or cookie dough scent. CP: Accelerates & discolors greenish-brown.

Why Buttermilk, Colloidal Oatmeal and Honey?
Buttermilk Is an excellent skin softer. It has lots of extra moisturizing properties, along with alpha hydroxy acids that are great for dry, sensitive skin and delicate skin. The natural sugar in buttermilk helps increase the bubbles in soap.
Colloidal Oatmeal is a micro-fine, ground oatmeal and is one of the most gentle exfoliants you can use. It’s a great additive for those with extra dry skin and is used to alleviate itchiness. It’s also known for it’s soothing properties and has all the benefits of oatmeal without the scratchiness. It also makes skin feel smooth & refreshing.
Honey adds additional humectant properties and helps create bubbles. (A humectant is an ingredient that absorbs moisture from the air.) Humectants are great for the skin, as they can help the skin retain moisture. Honey also contains antioxidants and natural sugars which can increase the lather of soap.

 

The Plan:
Pour off 15 oz for special projects
3 lb Silicone Mold, 52 oz soap
2.45 oz of OMH Cybilla, .45 oz OMH (to finish bottle).
Layer natural batter with colors, hanger swirl middle.
Top with bubble wrap and oats.

Master batch Oils #11: 48 oz Oils (Makes 67 oz soap)
MB Oils: 48 oz/ 1361 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.85 oz / 194 grams
Frozen Buttermilk: (3.84 oz disc/ 24%): 12 oz / 340 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 14 grams (in oils or in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 14 grams (in oils)
Colloidal Oatmeal (1%): 14 grams (in oils)
Honey Powder (1%): 14 grams (in oils)
Carrot Extract (1%): 14 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

52 oz Batter/Color/3 oz FO, 1.55 oz VS:
30 oz Natural, 2 oz OMH-C, 1 oz VS
6 oz Brown – BB Purple Brazilian Clay (brown in high quantities) .55 oz OMH
7 oz MM Turmeric Root Powder Orange (in water) .45 oz OMH-C, .3 oz VS
7 oz TD White; No FO, .25 oz VS
(BB = Bramble Berry; MM= Mica’s & More; TD = Titanium Dioxide; VS= NG Vanilla Stabilizer)
Pour 18 oz Natural, layer colors/drop swirl, pour 12 oz Natural, then hanger swirl.
Top 80% with bubble wrap & 20% with oats.
Put in refrigerator to prevent milk overheating.

 

The Reality:
I defrosted my frozen Buttermilk for about 20 minutes, which was a bit long and caused the lye liquid to heat up to 112F, but there was no scorching and it got to a very beautiful yellow color.

I soaped my lye liquid and oils at 92F and 90F, stick blending to just past emulsified (using an immersion blender); divided up batter, adding each color and FO combo. I had to wait about 20 minutes until the soap was just the right consistency to pour 18 oz of Natural, then add the colors, and poured part of the 12 oz of Natural. I did a horizontal hanger swirl and topped off with the last of the Natural batter and a little bit of the colors; then made a chevron patter with a thin chopstick; added some Oats on one side and bubble wrap on the other.

I let it set for a few minutes, then put it in the refrigerator to prevent overheating of the milk & honey.

 

The Cut:
Since taking these photos, the slightly darker tan on the bottom half of bars has darkened to a light brown, while the brown in the swirls is now a dark brown, which gives it a more dramatic look than what you see here:

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Conclusions:
I am So thrilled with how beautiful these turned out! I love the gentle swirls and understated simplicity of this soap. And the scent is fabulous!

The orange turmeric was a bust, and seems to have faded to nothing; while the light brown has slowly taken over more of the tan – but that makes it even more dramatic.

I have used this fragrance before, with a slightly different design, which you can see here and here.

 

 

Almond Cybilla Goat Milk in tiger and hanger swirls

I wanted to do something different with this soap, as it is typically done in confetti or beige & cream, so I reverted to what is becoming my favorite technique: Tiger stripe pour with a vertical hanger swirl, using autumn colors:

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Description of Bramble Berry Almond Cybillia Fragrance: A very real smelling almond – smooth and crisp. Reviews: sweet & true almond scent. CP: Discolors dark brown, 4% Vanilla.

Why Goat Milk? Goat milk is particularly moisturizing and nourishing to the skin because of capric-caprylic triglyceride. Capric-caprylic triglyceride is an effective skin moisturizer that helps to contribute to skin softness by forming a barrier on the skin to help inhibit the loss of moisture. The protein strands of goat milk are shorter than other types of milk and are more readily absorbed by skin. Goat milk also has naturally occurring lactic acid that helps keep skin smooth by encouraging skin turnover (allowing the skin to naturally rejuvenate, similar to a gentle peel). It also contains many vitamins, specifically A (known for it’s ability to repair damaged tissue and reduce wrinkles), D and B6, as well as the anti-oxidant Selenium.

 

The Plan:
Pour off 12 oz batter for other projects
Use 52 oz of soap
Tiger & hanger swirl
Put in refrigerator to prevent milk from overheating

Master batch Oils #11: 46 oz Oils (Makes 64 oz soap)
MB Oils: 46 oz/ 1304 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 6.57 oz / 186 grams
Frozen Goat Milk & Frozen Distilled Water: (3.18 oz disc/ 21%): 12 oz / 340 grams (9.5 oz Goat Milk, 2.5 oz Distilled water).
Sodium Lactate (1%): 13 grams (in oils, can add to Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 13 grams (in oils)
Calendula Extract (1%): 13 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Chamomile Extract (2%): 26 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

52 oz Batter/Colors/1.2 oz FO 1.8 oz VS:
8 oz TD White, No FO, with .4 oz/11 grams VS
12 oz BB Red Mica, .4 oz/11 grams FO, .6 oz/17 grams VS
10 oz BB Nuclear Orange & BB Sunset Orange (yellow), .2 oz/6 grams FO, .4 oz/11 grams VS
10 oz BB Fizzy Lemonade Yellow, .2 oz/5 grams FO, .4 oz/11 grams VS
12 oz BB Cappuccino Brown, .4 oz/12 grams FO, No VS
(BB = Bramble Berry; TD = Titanium Dioxide; VS= Natures Garden Vanilla Stabilizer)
Pour: Brown, red, yellow, orange, white – repeat.

 

The Reality:
I soaped the lye liquid & oils at 88F, straining the lye liquid into the oils, then stick blending (using an immersion blender) to emulsified; dividing & coloring the batter, and starting my special projects while the main batter set up a bit.

When the soap was at a light trace, I added the FO & VS (which were already combined) into my colored batter and poured a tiger stripe in the order of: brown, red, yellow, orange, & white, repeating numerous times. Then I used a thin hanger tool vertically, attempting to get right near the top, but not breaking though it. I added another round of colors, then used a toothpick to swirl the top.

I should have left it at that, but it just wasn’t enough, so I swirled lengthwise too:

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The mold went into the refrigerator for 24 hours to prevent the milk from overheating.

 

The Cut:

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Conclusions:
I pulled the hanger vertically, but forgot to zig-zag. And when I added soap on top, I should have added it all along the top, instead of just in the center, which produced a dip in the middle.

A vertical swirl all the way to the top would make it more consistent – it’s still nice, just not perfect in my mind’s eye – but it smells awesome!

I have used this fragrance before, in a Confetti design, which you can see here and here.

 

 

Deadly Weapon with Cedarwood, cp gun embeds and red jojoba beads

Description of Natures Garden and Bramble Berry Scents:
NG Deadly Weapon Fragrance Oil: A rugged and masculine scent with the perfect balance of intense spices including black pepper, cardamom and clove with a touch of sweet mandarin that sets the scene for the introduction of rich leather, smooth frankincense and edgy woods. Top: Mandarin, Black Pepper, Cardamom. Mid: Clove, Vetiver, Leather. Base: Frankincense, Myrrh, Sandalwood, Musk. .057% Vanilla. CP: No R, D, A, S.
BB Cedarwood Atlas Essential Oil: Deep, woodsy aroma; has the wonderfully sweet, earthy aroma of the cedarwood trees. CP: discolors tan.

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Why Exfoliate? Exfoliation is the key to maintaining smooth, soft and healthy skin. The process of exfoliating involves using a “scrubby” material coupled with manual scrubbing to remove dead skin. Removing dead skin allows moisturizer and other skin care products to absorb better. Removing dead skin also create a more even and radiant skin tone.

Jojoba beads are created from jojoba oil, which is a luxurious liquid wax derived from the seed of the Jojoba shrub. Jojoba oil is made of up various long chain molecules. These molecules are transformed from a liquid to a solid wax by processes called hydrogenation. This firm wax is referred to a jojoba ester, also known as a jojoba bead. The round shape gives you a light exfoliation.

 

The Plan:
Pour off 14.5 oz batter for special projects
Make 8 bars in 9-bar mold, without dividers (hand cut). 46 oz total.
Use 39 oz of batter Plus:
8 cp gun embeds for top, and guns and ammo embeds inside (7.3 oz total)
Red Jojoba Beads
1:1 mix of Deadly Weapon FO & Cedarwood Atlas EO (1.4 oz of each)

Master batch Oils #11: 38 oz Oils (Makes 53.5 oz soap)
MB Oils: 38 oz/ 1077 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 5.43 oz / 154 grams
Distilled Water: (2.54 oz disc/ 20%): 10 oz / 283 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add in Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Buckthorn Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Dulse Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

Batter/Colors/FO-EO Blend with .5 oz Vanilla Stabilizer:
39 oz TD white
1 tsp Red Jojoba Beads
Pour small base, add embeds, pour rest of soap, add guns on top.

 

The Reality:
I stick blended my lye and oils at 92F (using an immersion blender) until emulsified, then divided up the batter. I mixed up about 1/4 of the soap with titanium dioxide, red Jojoba beads, and about a quarter of the EO/FO mix, stick blending to firm it up, then poured into a 9-bar slab mold.

After waiting a bit for the right consistency, I added my 7 guns and 3 bullets top side down (so as the bar is used, the top will be revealed.) I had marked off the mold for 8 bars and proper placement of the embeds. (To be hand-cut after un-molding.)

I prepared the rest of the batter just like the first pour, let it firm up to a medium trace, then added to the mold. I  put in a pre-heated 150F oven (turned off) for 4 hours to CPOP. (Typically a 170F oven is used, but at an altitude of 6,000 feet, where I live, 150F is better, as 170F is too hot.) If I am working with a wooden mold, I find that using the oven helps the soap harden faster and makes it easier to un-mold.

 

The Cut:

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Conclusions:
This was a simple project to make. It’s been a while since I used Jojoba beads in soap and I was very cautious with the amount. I have read to use 1 teaspoon per pound of soap, which would suggest to use over 2 teaspoons, but I only used one, as this seemed like a nice amount to get a good look in the soaps. (Although they are difficult to see in the photos, the red Jojoba beads are prominent in the soap.)

You can see the previous batch of Deadly Weapon soap here.

 

 

Eucalyptus Mint Tree Pink Himalayan Salt Bars with embeds on top and negative impression mat on bottom, with Neem & Meadowfoam oils

The Why’s of Salt Soap:
Why Salt Bars? They combine the cleansing, exfoliating and detoxifying qualities of a salt bath with handmade natural soap. Salt soap bars blend the best of both natural soap and a sea salt bath. Sea salts draw toxins out of the body, which will naturally lead to feeling refreshed. They also cleanse & detoxify the face and body, and are relaxing to your skin & muscles. Many people love the way they make your skin feel.

Why Pink Himalayan Salt? It is a pure, hand-mined salt that is derived from ancient sea salt deposits, and it is believed to be the purest form of salt available. It is used by holistic chefs, spas, health professionals, and individuals for its range of nutritional and therapeutic properties. Externally, pink salt can be used to stimulate circulation, relax the body, lower blood pressure, sooth sore muscles, and remove toxins from the body. This salt has a rich mineral content that includes over 84 minerals and trace elements such as: calcium, magnesium, potassium, copper and iron. It can also assist with relief from arthritis, skin rashes, eczema, psoriasis, herpes, and flu and fever symptoms.

Why Exfoliate? Extra-fine salt (used here) gives a gentle to medium exfoliation, which is the key to maintaining smooth, soft and healthy skin. The process of exfoliating involves using a “scrubby” material coupled with manual scrubbing to remove dead skin. Removing dead skin allows moisturizer and other skin care products to absorb better. Removing dead skin also create a more even and radiant skin tone.

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Description of Bramble Berry and Essential Depot Scents:
BB Eucalyptus EO: This is a very strong essential oil with a camphoraceous, woody-scent. It awakens the mind and opens the lungs, helps remove exhaustion & mental sluggishness and can rejuvenate the spirits of the sick. It has a pleasant aroma and is effective as a deodorant, antibacterial, antiseptic, and antimicrobial agent. CP: No Discolor.
BB Moroccan Mint: A scrumptious blend of Spearmint, Peppermint and Corn Mint, with just a touch of black tea sprinkled in to provide a stable, full bottom note. Smooth & Complex – fulling rounded out. Calming & at the same time reviving. It’s cool, crisp, refreshing; CP: No D. Performs well.
BB & ED Tea Tree (Melaleuca): Has a minty, earthy smell that leaves you energized & revitalized. Tea tree oil has claimed to be useful for treating a wide variety of medical conditions and shows promise as an antimicrobial. It may be effective in a variety of dermatologic conditions including dandruff, acne, lice, herpes, and other skin infections. CP: Water White.

Why Neem and Meadowfoam Oils?
The Benefits of Neem Oil are propertied to be extensive: helping to heal numerous skin disorders including eczema, psoriasis, rashes, burns and acne. More in-depth information can be found in a previous blog here.
Meadowfoam Oil is moisturizing & rejuvenating, creates a creamy lather, and adds a silky, smooth feel. It is composed of fatty acids with a very high level of oxidative stability and provides great emollience.

 

The Plan:
18 bar mold with negative impression mat on bottom and Taiwan swirl with embeds on top.
Make 6.4 oz bars and leftover sample bars.
Add 5 oz each of Neem & Meadowfoam oils to Master Batch oils (run through Lye Calculator).
Eucalyptus Mint Tree EO blend
Put in 150F oven for 4 hours, then un-mold while still warm

Salt MB Oils #2: 55 oz Oils Plus 5 oz oils Neem & 5 oz Meadowfoam (Makes 92 oz /5.75 lbs) – Plus 33 oz PH Salt; 125 oz – 7.875 lb)
SMB Oils: 55 oz/ 1559 grams
Neem Oil (7.6%): 4.96 oz/ 141 grams
Meadowfoam Oil (7.6%): 4.96/ 141 grams
NaOH/Lye 10% SF: 9.41 oz/ 267 grams
Distilled Water: (3.45 oz/16% disc): 18 oz/ 510 grams
Kaolin Clay (1%): 16 grams (in oils)
Chamomile Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Calendula Extract (1%): 16 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Fine Pink Himalayan Salt: 33 oz (by weight)

Scent Blend: 1.4 oz Eucalyptus, 1.4 oz Moroccan Mint; 1.4 oz Tea Tree = 4.2 oz total
(Used 1.6 oz E; 1.9 oz MM; .85 oz TT = 4.35 oz Total – MM seemed week; ran out of TT)

92 oz Batter/Colors/ 33 oz PH Salt/ 4.1 oz EO/FO blend:
(27.2 oz batter each 4 colors including salts/ 14.4 oz Orange with salt)
20 oz TD White, plus 7.2 oz PH Salt
20 oz BB 1982 Blue (Light Blue), plus 7.2 oz PH Salt
20 oz BB Ultramarine Blue (Dark Blue), plus 7.2 oz PH Salt
20 oz MM Hunter Green mica with hint of MM Fruit Green & CC Apple Green, plus 7.2 oz PH Salt
12 oz BB Nuclear Orange with a hint of BB Sunset Orange (yellow), plus 4.2 oz PH Salt
(BB = Bramble Berry, CC = Crafter’s Choice WSP, MM = Mica’s & More, TD= Titanium Dioxide)

 

The Reality:
I added the fragrance blend to oils & mixed. Soaped 130F lye & oils; stick blending (using an immersion blender) to light trace, which was too much, as it thickened quickly. Added the salt and that thinned it out a tiny bit.

I poured lines of color, then half way through did a Taiwan swirl (as I was planning the Peacock swirl and know it doesn’t reach all the way down the batter.) I did attempt the Peacock swirl, but the soap was too thick and I didn’t like the look, so I finished with a diagonal Taiwan swirl, however I wasn’t completely satisfied with just that, so after putting in the dividers, I added some embeds on top:

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I put the mold in a pre-heated 150F oven (then turned it off) for 4 hours to CPOP, removed when still warm, waited for 30 minutes to slightly cool, then pulled the loaf out of the liner and pealed the impression mat off the bottom . After waiting another hour, I un-molded each bar – they were still slightly warm, but firm enough to easily pull off the dividers.

 

The Un-molding:
The bars turned out to be a gigantic 6.5 to 7.5 oz each:

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Front & back of bars

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Conclusions:
I was disappointed that the batter set up so quickly – I’m not sure why, but it might have been the Neem oil.

The light blue has a bit more grey in it than I would have preferred, and is likely because of the brown of the Neem Oil. It’s difficult to get true colors in PH salt bars anyway, due to the salt and that it is pink.

 

Additional Information:

Check out more Salt Bars on the links below:

POGY – Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu Pink Himalayan Salt Bars
Lavender, Litsea, Rosemary & Tea Tree Pink Himalayan Salt Bars with meadowfoam & tamanu oils
Eucalyptus Mint Tree PH Salt with Neem & Tamanu oils. Plus Unscented PH Salt Bars
LLP: Lavender Lemongrass Peppermint Pink Himalayan Salt & Dead Sea Salt
Unscented Pink Himalayan Salt & Dead Sea Salt Soap with clay & plant colorants
Pink Himalayan Salt Test Soap Batch with Tamanu & Neem Oils
Eucalyptus Mint Tree with Neem Oil
Grapefruit, Kumquat & Lime
2 Batches: Unscented and Lavender, Moroccan Mint, Tea Tree, Ylang Ylang, Clary Sage & Black Tea Blend
Orange Lemongrass Patchouli & Unscented
Lemongrass, Lavender, Rosemary, Peppermint
Peach Mango Kumquat with Aloe & Coconut water
POGY: Pineapple Orange Grapefruit Yuzu

 

For Salt Bar Recipes, click on these links:
Salt Master Batch Oils #1
Salt Master Batch Oils #2 (“Everything But the Kitchen Sink”)

 

 

 

A Basket of Flowers – Chrysanthemums & Sunflowers

When in doubt, Bring Flowers!

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The Plan:
As I was making my fall soaps, I thought of how Mums & Sunflowers remind me of Autumn. So I started on some special projects – making extra batter with each batch of soap and creating Chrysanthemums and Sunflowers with a variety of fragrances – only two soaps per scent.

 

The Reality:
This turned out to be a slow & drawn out process – just making a couple soaps each session. And when I made Salt or Beer soap, I couldn’t make my flowers. So for the grand finale, I made a batch of soap just for the last two fragrances (plus a huge group of embeds for future projects).

 

Here’s the Lineup:

Chrysanthemums (two of each, with gold mica “painted” in the center):
Apple Sage Buttermilk (ITP white/green/red)
Blueberry Thyme (graduated blue)
Gardenia in Buttermilk (ITP white/yellow/green)
Raspberry Jam with poppy seeds (1 g poppy seed; ITP Raspberry with white & Merlot)
Red Currant & Thyme Goat Milk (red)
Southern Peach (graduated orange/peach & orange/white)

Sunflowers (two of each):
Chamomile Bergamot (Yellow, Orange, Orange-red, brown center)
Lemon Verbena (Gold/orange/white)
Lychee Goat Milk (red/orange/peach, brown center)
Raspberry Jam (ITP Raspberry with white & Merlot, with brown center)
Spiced Red Tea in Sunflower (raspberry, plum, queen’s purple, brown center)
Tuscan Blood Orange (ITP red mica with orange & yellow, with brown center)

 

The Photo Gallery:

Chrysanthemums:

Raspberry Jam with poppy seeds – ITP swirl: A sweet blend of wild raspberry, grape, loganberry, rose nectar, with hints of lily, cranberry, sugar syrup, & white musk:

Blueberry Thyme – using graduated colors: A very mild scent with notes of ripe blueberries, bergamot, lemon, Spanish rosemary, English thyme, vanilla, berry vines, and musk:

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Gardenia in Buttermilk, with Colloidal Oatmeal & Honey – ITP swirl: Main note of Gardenia, with hints of rose & orchid to accentuate and make it deeper & more complex:

Red Currant & Thyme Goat Milk – graduated colors: A rich blend of wine-like aromas with depth and complexity. Mild scent:

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Southern Peach – ITP swirl & graduated colors: Traditional peach that is softer, with some tropical notes (think guava, mango and ripe papaya) and a hint of white floral; making a complex, peachy scent:

Apple Sage in Buttermilk, with Colloidal Oatmeal & Honey – ITP swirl: A refreshing blend of sweet, juicy apple and herbaceous sage:

 

Sunflowers:

Raspberry Jam – ITP swirl: A sweet blend of wild raspberry, grape, loganberry, rose nectar, with hints of lily, cranberry, sugar syrup, & white musk:

Lemon Verbena – layers (prettier in person than in the photo): A complex blend of Italian Bergamot & Lemon Verbena:

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Lychee Goat Milk – layers: Exotic, mild dewy fruit – mellow and not too sweet with a hint tartness:

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Tuscan Blood Orange ITP swirl & layers: A zesty citrus blend of rich blood orange, tangy grapefruit and juicy mandarin:

Spiced Red Tea – layers: Deep & sophisticated, this fragrance has a heart of pink pepper, cinnamon leaf, nutmeg and saffron followed by a base of ebony woods, vetiver and tobacco. Lighter top notes of valencia orange, bergamot and grapefruit add a touch of sparkle:

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Chamomile Bergamot – layers (prettier in person than in the photo): A blend of primarily Chamomile and Bergamot, with notes of Tangerine, Pettigrain, Sage, Geranium and Moss:

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Conclusions:
These were really fun to make. I hope they are as much of a hit for everyone else as they are for me.

 

 

 

 

Saffron Honey Amber Ale Beer Soap in tiger stripe with hanger swirl

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Description of Bramble Berry FO’s:
Spiced Amber Ale: The fragrance starts with a fresh citrus top note and has a warm, exotic finish. The base is a wonderful synergy of pine, clove, honey and vanilla. CP: No D or A. Discontinued scent.
Saffron & Honey: Sweet & exotic honey: a blend of cardamom, clover, musk & honey with smooth, milky notes; warm & strong heady honey tone with dry & spicy mix. CP: Soaps nicely; discolors to light tan. (Used once – soap separated.) Discontinued scent.

 

The Plan:
3 lb silicone mold, 52 oz soap
Tiger & Hanger swirls
Use Dale’s Pal Ale beer – alcohol cooked out, then frozen
1 oz Amber Ale FO & 2 oz Saffron Honey FO

Master batch Oils #10: 38 oz Oils (Makes 53.5 oz soap)
MB Oils: 38 oz/ 1077 grams
NaOH/ Lye 5% SF: 5.43 oz / 154 grams
1:1 Frozen Beer & Frozen Distilled Water: (2.54 oz disc/ 20%): 10 oz / 283 grams
Sodium Lactate (1%): 11 grams (in oils or Lye water at 130 degrees)
Kaolin Clay (1%): 11 grams (in oils)
Buckthorn Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)
Dulse Extract (1%): 11 grams (in oils – can add at trace)

52 oz Batter/Color/2:1 FO
13 oz Cream (lightened with TD)
13 oz CC Yellow Locking mica
13 oz BB Nuclear Orange mica
13 oz BB Red mica
(BB = Bramble Berry; CC = Crafter’s Choice WSP; TD= Titanium Dioxide)

Tiger swirl alternating colors: Cream, Orange, Yellow, Red – repeat
Hanger swirl zig-zig vertically – using thin hanger.

 

The Reality:
I combined the lye liquid & oils at 93F & 96F, stick blending (using an immersion blender) just to emulsified, which took only seconds; divided & colored the batter, then added the FO. I quickly started pouring my tiger swirl, even though it was a bit thin – however that changed rapidly, and by the time I finished pouring and hanger swirled, the batter was too thick to do anything with it.

With some difficulty, I laid down two rows of each colored batter and swirled with a chopstick, then spritzed with BB Gold Sparkle mica; put in the fridge overnight to prevent the beer from overheating.

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The Cut:

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Conclusions:
I had suspected that the FO’s would accelerate, as they were several years old (however they still retained their original scents). My back up was to drop swirl the batter, but I was happy that I didn’t have to do that, as this turned into a fun design. I’m also pleased with the colors – this will be the start of the fall soap line up.

I’ve made an Amber Ale Beer soap a couple times before, and the addition of the Saffron Honey fragrance makes it an even nicer scent. You can see one using a wood grain mat here, as well as a variety of previous beer soaps here.